Maylie's Table d'Hote recipes

              , * * * MAY LIE'S * * *
TABLE D1 HOTE RECIPES
And the History and Some Facts
Concerning
'.,
~ ~
"LA MAISON MAYLIE ET ESPARBE"
* * * COMPILED AND WRITTEN BY
Eugenic Lavedan Maylie
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Price: 65c per Copy.
A Short History of Poydras Street
The land that is now Poydras Street and its environs
was originally a small part of a tract owned by the
Jesuit Fathers over 200 years ago. It was then
named the Faubourg Ste. Marie. In 1763 this fau­bourg,
or suburb, then valued at $180,000, was par­celled
into plantation sites and sold. One of these
plantations, established by Bertrand Gravier, in
April, 1778 and bearing his name, was among them.
The Gravier Plantation covered the territory that
is now bounded by Tchoupitoulas, South Claiborne,
Howard and Gravier Streets.
At Bertrand Gravier's death, his brother Jean in­herited
the property, and completed, by 1797, the
task of dividing it into squares, streets and lots.
A vacant portion of the land was reserved for the
public, named "Place Gravier," through which in
later years Baronne Streets was opened. Other streets
were cut through, one of which was originally called
Phillipa, now known as Dryades.
Poydras Street was reserved for a canal at its far
end, and for a market place in its center.
The Poydras Street market place stood for nearly
a century, and was only recently demolished. In
its place is a neutral ground flanked by two wide
streets.
At the corner where Dryades intersects Poydras is
the century and a quarter old building that houses
Maylies Restaurant. Little change has taken place
in the appearance of the old building. Its red brick
walls, iron grill work balcony, deep silled and shut­tered
windows are typical of the style of architecture
of its period. It is believed that the building was once
part of the Gravier Plantation.
I Maylie' s
TABLE D'HOTE
Recipes
And the History and Some Facts
Cotzcerning
I I
"LA MAISON MAYLI E ET ESPARBE"
Compiled and Written By
EUGENIE' LAVEDAN MAYLIE'
Daughter-in-Law of the Co-Founder
of Famous Ma~lie'' s Restaurant
Located at Poydras and Dryades
in New Orleans
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
No part or parts of this
book may be reproduced
without express permis­sion
of the Author.
I '\
Mayliils
TABLE D'HOTE RECIPES
And The History And Some Facts
Concerning
"LA MAISON MAYLIE' !T ESPARBE' "
The beginning was very simple, as is the start of almost every
great institution of a city. Sixty-nine years ago Messrs. Ber­nard
Maylie and Hypolite Esparbe had a coffee stall in the Poy­dras
Market. Their patrons were butchers, milkmen, and men
who in those days bought their cattle on the hoof, rising as early
as one and two o'clock in the morning to select their meat at
the stockyards. As business flourished it was decided, in 1876,
to move their business over to its present location, which was
then a billiard room and Cafe or Saloon. A short while later the
billiard room was abandoned, and in its place a wine cellar or
cave was installed.
By this time the friendship of these two partners was cemented
by their marriage to two sisters. Mr. Maylie having occa­sion
to visit Mme. Marie Esparbe's home in France, became
acquainted with her sister Anna, bringing her back to America
as his bride. Incidently, both these sisters were well-acquainted
with the art of cooking through their parents, who were inn­keepers
in France.
With the help of their wives it was agreed to arrange an 11
o'clock lunch or "petit dejeuner" to appease the rav.enous appe­tites
of their daily patrons. Then it was found that Mme.
Esparbe was a very good cook and the little dining room ar­ranged
beside the bar was soon filled to overflowing.
By now, 1894, Mr. Maylie's family having increased, larger quar­ters
were in need, and so it was they built on the adjoining lot
leaving an alley-way between the two buildings. In this spot
about midway between the buildings was a wisteria vine grow­ing
up around the corner house.
So pleased were the patrons and a limited number of friends
in these delicious breakfasts that permission was asked to in­vite
others. After some deliberation and under much persua­sion
Maylie and Esparbe decided to inaugurate a strictly Stag
Table d'Hote dinner. The soup-meat (bouilli) served at this
repast added further lustre to the fame of the house. To this
day this feature has been maintained. A stag dining room was
established in the new building, this same being still in use. It
must be remembered that at that time this large room was used
for the combined purpose of a wine cave and dining room. A
long table was placed in the center, and casks of assorted wines
and liqueurs were in view on either side. There was also a well­remembered
set of shelves of generous proportions, which held
bottled wines and liquors well-known to the connoisseur.
The tout-ensemble gave one the idea of the well-known French
caves. In contradistinction to other table d'hotes in this city,
coffee was not served at the dinner table but partaken of at the
cafe or bar. A quaint custom was to first buy one's ticket for
the meal at the bar and later to have it collected at the table
before the meal was completed.
In 1903 William H. Maylie succeeded to the management of the
business together with his father and uncle. In 1907 the death
of Mr. :M:aylie and in 1912 that of Mr. Esparbe caused no inter­ruption
to the business as Mrs. Maylie and Mrs. Esparbe carried
on with the Maylie sons as managers, they being "Willie" and
"Johnny" to half the city's business men and bon vivants. John
managed the dining room, Madame the kitchen and to William
belonged the task of buying and running the "business" side of
the enterprise. Whatev·er delicacies he found were sure to be
served before many days went by.
It was soon decided again to make another improvement by join­ing
and enclosing the two buildings to care for the increasing
trade. The question of saving the wisteria was much discussed
aR Mme. Esparbe would not hear of it being cut down. The
vine even then had become a tree-like bulk with its stems run­ning
around both buildings which showered fragrance over the
entire market section when the lavender blossoms came out in
Spring. Mme. Esparbe stood her ground and was rewarded
with a glass roofed enclosure and a hole through which her
beloved vine could still continue to spread.
Because of the fact that one could remove his coat and· tie · at
these stag dinners and enjoy an informal meal served at ·the
long table, where platters of food were placed before them and
the patron could help himself, this establishment became a pop­ular
place where race horse followers, prominent business men,
and many tourists and visitors became regular customers.
Another drawing card was the wine served without a limit,
which is still remembered as one of the good things before "pro­hibition."
When this last was put into force the wine cellar had ·to be
abolished and in its place another dining room was installed
where at last ladies could be served. This was done only after
the death of Mme. Esparbe, who had instituted the rule of "no
ladies."
-2-
While prohibition was still in force the house of Maylie and
Esparbe became incorporated. John Maylie then decided to
branch out into the bakery business. William H. Maylie, with
the aid of an outsider, ran the establishment a few years. By
the time prohibition was abolished this last party r·etired, and
it was then that the grandson, William Leon Maylie, stepped
in to help his father continue this third generation of business,
This grandson was manager after his father's demise, June 1939,
until the summer of 1942 when his uncle, John A. Maylie and
he became co-managers.
In the last few years Maylie's has also become popular in
catering to banquets and club luncheons.
General improvements have been made, but the quaint atmos­phere
and local color have not been changed to any great ex­tent.
"They come for atmosphere, but return for food," a prom­inent
gourmand once said.
Foreword
In distant parts of the world a city is usually better known by
its restaurants and cafes than by any other feature. No matter
how magnificent its commercial prosperity, how beautiful its
boulevards or how distinguished its citizens, they do not take
as salient a place in the mind of the tourist as the "Table d'Hote"
or restaurant at which he has dined.
In wandering through the South the traveler eventually finds
his way to New Orleans, the goal of good cooking. In this
respect "America's Most Interesting City" truly lives up to the
honor given her regarding the Creole and French way of pre­paring
food for it has upheld its reputation for generations.
"La Cuisine Creole," or "Creole Cookery," partakes of the
nature of its birthplace, New Orleans, which is cosmopolitan,
as it is really an adaption of French, Spanish, Italian, Indian and
some African and Mexican cooking. As an art, it is great and
truly simple, but also an experienced accomplishment.
I
Whether it be in the general home kitchen or in that of a restau-rant
the perfect preparation and combination of foods comes
naturally to the New Orleans chef or Creole cook. By some
unconscious impulse, they seem to know the flavor, piquancy,
and savoriness that each dish should have, and combine ingre­dients
skillfully with an agreeable and harmonious blend.
In a land of abundance, where seafoods, game, fresh meats,
vegetables, and fruits could so easily be gotten, it is no wonder
that the early settlers mixed the spicy Indian flavors with the
dainty French and pungent Spanish along with the African's
knowledge of wild herbs. This combination resulting in what
is known as Creole Cookery or "La Cuisine Creole."
-3-
I
MADAME ESPARBE
Her memory lives on in the tasty dishes she devised
Mrs. Maylie has gathered many articles that Mme. Esparbe used
in her kitchen, finding them stored away in closets. Among
them is her very first salt-box of pear wood, some yellow crocks
and urns, a couple of glazed yellow earthen saucepans, the old
iron hot water kettle, several pitchers1 a brown and white (mar­ble
effect) lard crock, a coffee pot, coffee mill, can opener, col­ander,
white and blue covered jars. for tea and prunes, etc.
-4-
,
MAYLIE'S TABLE D'HOTE RECIPES
In the: following pages will be found many recipes that have
been handed down from Mme. Esparbe and some of the excel­lent
cooks that have graced the Maylie's kitchen during these
past years. There are: also a few generally well-known New
Orleans recipes as well as those of the present Mrs. Maylie (all
her recipes marked thus ( * ) have received prizes).
(Note: In all the following recipes the quantities given
serve six or more. One increases or diminishes according to
requirements.)
PIQUANT SAUCE
So appetizing and delicious is the cocktail
sauce served at Maylie's, that visitors al­most
invariably ask to buy some to take
away. Several years ago Mr. Maylie and
one of liis waiters combined their individ­ual
cocktail sauces, thus, the resulting con­coction
retained the best features of each.
These condiments, spices, ketchup, and
horseradish, etc., are blended so that the
mixture may be used as a dressing . for
salads, seafoods or meats as well as a relish
on crackers.
It is bottled in pint and quart containers.
Guests will find a bottle on each table and
one always helps himself without limit.
MME. ESPARBE'S BOILED
BEEF.OR BOUILLI-Our Specialty
When bouilli is cooked at our restaurant,
it is cut into large pieces of about 8 to 10
lbs., but for a small family, buy a piece of
beef brisket about four lbs. or more. Do
not make the mistake of getting an inferior
piece of soup-meat, it must be brisket. To
this amount of meat allow about 6 qts. or
more water and boil for 4 hours slowly.
-5-
This meat is not seasoned. It is suggested
that a good sauce can be made by the guest
of Creole mustard, horseradish, ketchup,
and other seasonings.
ROUX (Brown or White)
1 or 2 tablespoons butter or good lard, 1
or more tablespoons of flour (according to
richness desired.
This is the foundation of all sauces. The
Creole cook like the French hold that the
success of sauces depends upon its brown
or white roux. First of all it is well to
remember that in making Brown roux, it
must never be burnt or over-browned. In
making the roux melt the butter or lard
slowly and gradually add the flour, stir­ring
constantly till all is a delicate brown,
remembering that as other ingredients are
added the browning continues. The secret
of good cooking lies in the gradual in­troduction
of ingredients and it is a mis­take
to just throw in the last mentioned.
A white roux is made like the brown ex­cept
that flour and butter is blended to­gether
at the same time and not allowed
to brown. This roux is used for sauce
containing milk and cream.
Soups
(In all our soups and gravies the
stock from the boiled beef is added in­stead
of water, thus making them
richer and more palatable. There is,
naturally, exception to this rule on
Fridays.)
CREOLE VEGETABLE SOUP
or JULIENNE
3 qts. of meat stock, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, 1
onion, 4 branches of celery, 1 small green
sweet pepper, 1 doz. string beans, 2 me­dium
sized tomatoes, Yz cup green pet~s, 4
buttons garlic, 2 sprigs of thyme, parsley,
salt and pepper to taste, 2 or 3 leeks if ob­tainable.
Wash, scrape or peel all vegetables, slice
into small pieces. Fry onions, green pep­per
and tomatoes. Add this to the rest of
vegetables and hot stock. Let boil slowly
for 1 hour or more. Skim and season to
taste. Add minced parsley when serving
if desired. .
This same soup may be strained and fancy
pastes such as stars, letters, shells, vermi­celli,
etc., inserted and boiled until tender.
In New Orleans certain fresh Creole vege·
tables can be had the year around and for
that reason Creole vegetable soup is served
a great deal in all restaurants.
ONION SOUP
1 lb. onions sliced, Yz stick of butter, 1
tablespoon flour, 2 qts. stock, sliver of salt
meat, Parmesian (or Gruyere) cheese, salt
and pepper to taste.
Smother onions and salt meat in butter.
browning in the flour, just enough to blend
liquid. Pour in hot stock and let simmer
three-quarters to one hour. Pour in earth­enware
dish, place croutons on top, sprin­kle
with cheese and bake in oven until
latter is browned. Serve with more cheese
on the side and croutons.
CROUTONS
Make croutons by cutting or dicing bread,
toast dry in oven and then saute same in
butter.
EGG SOUP a Ia PAYSANNE':'
(This is the least expensive of soups
though very nutritious. It may be used
on the Lenten menu quite frequently.)
! '2 eggs, 1 onion, 3 buttons of gtWlic, 11 piece
\ b/ hot pepper, thyme, salt and pepper, a
..._teaspoon of vinegar, 1 tablespoon flour, 1
qt. hot water. ,
Slightly brown the onion and garlic in
the flour. Pour in hot water and season­ings.
Break the white of eggs into this
hot soup and drop yellows into a cup. let
soup boil at first, then sinimer about Yz
hour. Cut thin slices of dry bread into a
soup tureen. Just after pouring strained
soup into dish, mix vinegar with yellows
and mix carefully in soup. Pick out egg
whites and add to soup. Do not heat ov~r
fire again as eggs may curdle. Keep warm
over hot water.
NOTE
This recipe has been handed down through
several generations and is a soup that was
used extensively by the peasantry of France.
They generally poured a little red wine
in it at the table to make it still more pala­table.
COLLARD GREENS SOUP
"La Garburre"
(Mme. Esparbe's recipe)
2 or 3 bunches of young collards, 1 cup of
smllll dry white beans, 1 lb. of /at saltetl
pork (green shoulder preferred), 1 onion, 3
cloves, 4 buttons of garlic, 2 sprigs of
thyme, piece of hot pepper, 2 cups of diced
Irish potatoes, beef stock.
Remove tender part of collard leaves from
stems. Wash thoroughly and cut into
shreds. Parboil greens and beans separate­ly,
drain. Fry salt meat then onion and
garlic in a little flour to make a brown
roux. Pour in about 2 qts. or more of hot
stock then add shredded collards, beans
and all other seasonings. Let come to a
boil and then simmer for 2 hours. Add
diced potatoes about 20 minutes or more
before serving as they will go to pie<:es
otherwise. Serve with thin slices of toasted
bread. ·
NOTE
The French cooks used instead of the ordi­nary
salt pork, a piece of salted goose or
duck, known or termed "confi." It give~ a
more delicate taste to soup and vegetables
and the meat is most palatable. Confi is
still prepared by some of the older genera­tion
but is hardly known now. It has
never been sold or put on the market, due
to cost and because the climate here is too
warm to keep it longer than a few months.
For that reason salted pork is used in the
above recipe.
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LENTIL or SPLIT PEA PUREE
Both of these beans should be free of all
particles such as small rocks and hard, dry
earth. Wash and soak for one hour before
. parboiling.
1 lb. of either lentils or split peas, 1 onion,
4 buttons of garlic, 1 Yz qts. meat stock,
small piece of salt-meat, 2 tablespoons flour,
thyme, 2 birdeyes or equivalent hot pep­per,
parsley, 1 branch of celery, salt a11d
pepper, 1 kitchen spoon of olive oil.
Add hot meat stock to the parboiled beans
and liquid. Brown flour slightly in oil,
then salt-meat and onion, insert with other
vegetables and seasonings. Let all simmer
slowly for one hour or more. Strain, being
sure to mash beans well so that soup will
be creamy. Be sure to use the flour as it
will keep the bean pulp blended with the
broth. Add a generous piece of butter and
serve with buttered toast or croutons.
LEEK and POTATO PUREE*
1 bunch leeks, 3 large potatoes, 1 table­spoon
flour, 1 tablespoon minced gllrlic
llnd parsley, sprig of thyme, 2 birdeye pep­pers,
Yz kitchen spoon butter, salt 4nd
pepper, 2 qts. beef stock.
Leeks are very cooling and should be used
as often as possible. This soup makes a
nourishing Lenten dish (of course; sub­stituting
water for stock) as well as an
economical one. Cut and wash leeks thor­oughly.
Drain well, melt butter and brown
flour. Fry leeks in flour, insert thyme,
garlic, parsley, and birdeyes. Pour in bot
stock and let come to a boil. Dice pota­toes
and add. Boil again and then let sim­mer
until potatoes are done. Mash through
sieve, salt and pepper to taste. Serve with
toast or saltines.
SOUP a Ia TORTUE
(Turtle Soup)
2 to 3 lbs. Louisiana turtle, 1 onion, 2 large
tomatoes ( br. equivalent in can), 1 table­spoon
minced garlic and parsley, sprig of
thyme, 1 bayleaf, 3 cloves, piece of hot pep­per,
turtle eggs or 2 hard-boiled eggs, Yz
glass of sherry, salt and pepper, hot turtle­water
and beef broth, sliced lemon.
If a small turtle is. used, all bones should
be removed from meat after same has boil­ed,
tender. Turtle eggs should be boiled in
their shells. Fry minced onion in small
amount of flour, add tomatoes and smother
awhile, add boiled turtle water and beef
broth to the amount of 3 qts. Let come to
-7-
a boil and insert all seasonings, add the
turtle and cover pot to boil Yz hour or
more, then simmer about 1 hour. When
done take from fire and insert cut eggs,
minced parsley, sherry and lemon. Serve
with buttered toast or salted crackers.
SHELLFISH GUMBO
1 doz. hard shell crabs or equivalent fresh
crab-meat, 1 lb. lake shrimp, 1 doz. oysters,
1 onion, 3 large Creole tomatoes, 2 qts.
fresh okra, sprig- of thyme, 1 tablespoon
minced garlic and parsley, 2 tablespoons of
lard, salt and pepper to taste, 2 birdeye
peppers.
If crabs with shells are used be sure that
they are alive. Scald and dean crabs, .. tak­ing
off the dead man's fingers and sand
bags." Shell shrimp and remove sand
veins. Remove all pieces of loose shells
from oysters. Heat lard and drop in onion
and okra that has been cut into small pieces.
Do not use the large ones with big seeds
unless they are very tender. Let smother
before adding seeded tomatoes and other
seasonings. · Fry crabs and shrimp and add
okra which must be stirred occasionally.
Add oyster water and 3 qts. hot water.
Oysters should be inserted only 15 or 20
minutes before serving. Let simmer for
about three-quarters of an hour. Serve
with boiled Louisiana rice.
- NOTE:
Never use black pots in preparing okra or
eggplants. The vegetables will become dis­colored.
CRAYFISH GUMBO FILE'~
4 doz. large crayfish, 1 qt. oyster liquor, 1
qt. hot water, 1 large minced onion, 1 large
tomato, Yz kitchen spoon /lour, 1 bay lea/,
sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon minced garlic
and parsley, 2 birdeyes, 1 heaping table­spoon
butter, salt and pepper to taste, two
teaspoons fresh file.
Wash crayfish in salted water so as to make
them emit all sand. Rinse and boil, then
shell when cooled. Brown flour in ·short­ening,
adding onion and tomatoes one at
a time until done. Pour in hot drained
oyster liquor then hot water. Let boil, then
add all other seasonings and crayfish. Sim­mer
for three-quarters of an hour and then
add just before serving, the file. Stir in
well and let thicken as desired. Serve with
boiled or steamed Louisiana rice.
CRAWFISH BISQUE
6 or 8 doz. large crawfish, 2 tablespoons
flour, 2 onions, 2 branches of celery, 2
tomatoes, 1 bay lea/, 2 sprigs of thyme, 3
cloves, 2 qts. of oyster water or beef stock,
piece of hot pepper, dash of cayenne, 1
tablespoon minced garlic and parsley, 2
tablespoons of butter or good lard, salt and
pepper, a cup of wet bread that has bPen
soaked and squeezed, 1 egg.
Wash and cleanse crawfish after they have
soaked in salt water to make them emit
all sand. Boil in about a gallon of water,
remove crawfish ·and save the water. Select
one-third of the largest fish, remove tails
and clean out inside of heads then free
heads of claws, feet and eyes, etc. Shell
the tails and rest of crawfish. Make a roux
of the flour, Yz lard or butter, brown one
minced onion and tomatoes well, then
pour in the crawfish water with warm oys­ter
water, if to be used for a fast dinner,
otherwise substitute beef stock for oyster
water. Insert broken fish meats and sea­sonings
and let come to a boil then let
simmer while heads are being prepared.
Take reserved crawfish meat and make a
stuffing as (ollows: mince the other
onion, fry in melted butter then add minced
crawfish tails and squeezed chopped bread
with leaves from a sprig of thyme, salt and
pepper. Mash all well and add beaten egg
after having cooled same a little. Stuff
heads, roll lightly in Hour and brown in
oven, then add to soup and simmer Yz
hour. This is a soup which demands time
to make but one is rewarded for his or her
trouble when partaking of a bisque made
of these crustaceans. Serve with boiled rice
or croutons.
J
The wood stove that Mme. Esparbe first used was still in use
after she died. It was said never to have gone out, but that,
one knows, is an exaggeration. We do know that she kept it
shining like a mirror and everything in her kitchen was
scrubbed white daily. Her kitchen had an antique look with
its fancy-cut newspaper on the shelves, and sand thrown on the
floor to catch whatever grease spattered, and woe to he or her
who had the misfortune to spill unnecessarily. She demanded
that her pots, pans, tables, and kitchen utensils, as well as the
court yard, be as immaculate as her attire.
--8-
••
Seafoods
I uI I
CREOLE BOU I LLABAISE
. 4 or 6 slices eacb of Red Snapper and Red
Fish, 4 large Creole tomatoes or equivalent
in can, 1 bell pepper, 2 onions, 1 large bay
leaf, 1 large sprig of thyme, 4 allspice, 1
herb bouquet, 12 lemon, 2 tablespoons
olive oil, 1 heaping tablespoon of minced
garlic and pepper, salt, pepper and cayenne
to taste, 1 glass white wine.
Buy fish small so as to haye no waste. Cut
heads off, rinse and boil in 1 qt. of water,
with the bouquet of herbs and a generous
slice of onion. Let same reduce to half so
as to make a fish stock. Strain and set
aside. Rin:;e whole fish and cut into slices
of amount desired. Rub same well on both
sides with thyme, parsley, garlic, bay leaf,
allspice, which have been minced or ground
well. See that every part of fish is well
saturated. Heat olive oil in a roomy sauce­pan
so that when placing fish, the slices
will lay flat. Mince rest of onion and fry
in hot oil. Lay each slice of fish side by
side and cover to smother, for about 15
minutes. Turn fish over carefully to fry
on other side. Remove same carefully so
as not to break slices and set aside to keep
warm. Add tomatoes that have been
skinned and seeded rings of green sweet
pepper, and let fry well. Add thin slices of
lemon, hot fish stock, white wine, salt, pep­per,
cayenne or other }lot pepper. Let all
boil well until reduced- to about half. Lay
, fish in this gravy, without overlapping and
boil about 5 minutes or more. Serve fish
on buttered slices of toast and pour sauce
over same. Serve immediately or toast will
become soggy. ·
SPANISH COURTBOUILLION
6 or 8 slices of Red/ish or Red Snapper, 1
tablespoon of lard, 2 tablespoons flottr, 1
large onion, 4 large tomatoes, 1 bell pep­per,
1 sprig of thyme, 1 bay lea/, 1 table­spoon
minced garlic and parsley, and a
piece of hot pepper, 2 pts. of hot water if
to be used as a fast day dish otherwise use
beef broth, Yz glass of red wine, salt and
pepper to taste.
Make a brown roux by heating hot lard
into which 1 tablespoon of the flour is
stirred. Add minced onion, green pepper
seeded and skinned tomatoes, let fry well
then pour in the hot water and let come
to a boil. Insert all other seasonings. Salt
and pepper slices of fish, passed lightly in
rest of flour and fry. Place in above sauce,
and let simmer with wine for about a half
-9-
hour or more. Remove each slice of fish
carefully when ready to serve and place on
large slices of toast. Pour gravy over all,
and garnish with slices of lemon. Se.rve
with mashed potatoes or French fried.
MAYLIE'S RED FISH SAUCE
-Vinaigrette
One 3 or 4-lb. red fish, 1 onion, 2 bay
leaves, 1 large sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon
vinegar, 3 or 4 sprigs of parsley, salt and
pepper.
Clean and wash fish, lay in a pan with
enough hot water to swim. Slash sides of
fish slightly to prevent same from shrinking
Place vegetable, herbs, salt and pepper and
vinegar in water. Cover pan and let boil
about 10 minutes. When done remove
from pan, cool and peel off skin. Serve
cold with a vinegrette sauce as follows:
Boil 3 eggs hard, mash yellows, mix with
6 or 8 chopped shallots, 2 tablespoons vine­gar,
6 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon
minced parsley, chopped egg-whites, a few
minced olives, salt and pepper to taste.
BROILED POMPANO with
DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE
Broil Pompano, after being split down the
back and cleaned, seasoned with salt and
pepper and iubbed with a generous pour­ing
of sweet or olive oil. A wire broiler is
best to use but the fish may be placed in a
flat baking pan and put under the flame in
a gas stove. When top of fish is browned
then place in the top oven a few minutes,
as fish cannot be turned without breaking.
Place in long platter and pour over drawn
butter to which has been added chopped
parsley and lemon juice. Serve with puffed
potatoes. See page 24.
NOTE:
This is a fish that is peculiar to the Gulf
of Mexico and the Louisiana Gulf stream
shores. It is a New Orleans fish, known
the world over for its delicacy, hence few
visitors should leave our Creole City with­out
having tasted it. There 'is only one
way that it is really cooked and that is to
broil it. It may ·be served with several
sauces but the most popular is with drawn
butter and lemon.
MME. ESPARBE'S BACALAO
11,;2 lbs. real Bacalao (imported), 1
minced onion, 1 tablespoon of minced gar­lic
and parsley, 2 t11blespoons olive · oil,
thyme,. 1 bay lea/, 2 birdeyes, about 1 glass
of milk, salt and pepper to taste, toasted
French cap loa/, 1 pt. hot water, 1 Yz table­spoons
flour, 3 or 4 potatoes.
Soak the codfish over night. Pour off
water next morning, pour in fresh wate1"
and bring to a boil. Remove from fite to
cool enough to pick bones and skins. Make
a white roux of flour, onion and garlic and
parsley. Insert hot water and rest of sea­soning.
Let come to a -boil then add cod­fish
and whole potatoes. Add hot milk
toward end and only enough to have gravy
slightly thick. Toast large slices of French
cap loaf, place this on a large platter and
lift fish and potatoes on to same. Pour
gravy over all and serve immediately,
otherwise bread will become soggy.
CASPURGOT or SOLE., and
TARTAR SAUCE
(Sheephead and Floun.der)
These two Gulf water fish are of less rich
flesh than Pompano and they are more fre­quently
used. They may be fried, baked
or broiled. To fry, have a 3 or 4-lb .. ftsn
cut into thick slices. Wash and dry, pepper
and salt. · Dip in an egg batter, and drop
in hot oil and brown on all sides. Drain
on brown paper and serve with a tartar
sauce. To broil or bake, season well with
salt and pepper and dredge• in oil. Use
lemon, butter, and a little water to dilute
juices and garnish with parsley. Serve
with a cress salad.
SPANISH MACKEREL a Ia
POYDRAS':'
1 fresh mackerel (about 11,;2 lbs.), 1h cup
chopped green onions, 1 kitchen spoon
butter, 1 cttP mushrooms, minced parsley, ·
salt and pepper thin slices of lemon.
Slice fish in half then into 3 pieces each.
· Rinse fish, dry, salt and pepper. Melt
butter and add green onions and mu-;h­rooms,
let fry somewhat, then lay fish on
this and after a while sprinkle parsley over
all. See that fish lays side to side in sauce­pan.
Cover and let smother. Add a slight
bit of water to prevent scorching. Just
before serving, place thin slices of lemon
over and between fish. Serve with potatoes,
either puffed, French fried, or otherwise.
STUFFED. CRABS (Creole)
1 doz. hard-shelled crabs (blue cliiUJs, ;j
possible), 1 large onion or equivalent green
shallots, 1 small green pepper, 1 large to­mato,
1 tablespoon or more of garlic and
parsley minced, sprig of thyme, piece of hot
pepper, about a cup or more of wet · stale
bread or bread crumbs, about lh stick oj
butter, salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs.
Boil crabs in plenty of water. When cool
break off all feet and claws. Open crabs,
remove "dead man's fingers" and sand bag.
Pick meat and fat from crab and claws.
Fry minced onion in a little butter, then
add minced green sweet pepper and toma­toes.
Brown all well and add crabs and
all seasonings, let fry well. Add more but­ter
and chopped squeezed wet bread. Let
all fry well and remove from .fire to cool
somewhat. Beat eggs into crabs and stuff
shells that have been thoroughly scoured.
Sprinkle with bread crumbs and dot with
butter. Bake in a moderate oven until doDe
·and golden brown.
MME. ESPARBE'S CRAB PONT­CHARTRAI
N and CREOLE RICE
1 doz. blue hard-shell crabs, 1 onion, 2
fresh tomatoes, 1 kitchen spoon tomato
paste, 1 sweet green pepper, two kitchen
spoons flour, 1 tablespoon minced gariic
and parsley, piece of butter, 1 sprig of
thyme, 1 bay lea/, 2 birdeye peppers or
equivalent red hot pepper, 2 qts. hot water,
2 raw eggs, salt and pepper.
Crabs must be alive and should be scalded
to be killed. Remove shell cover then
"dead men's fingers,'' tips of claws, mouth
and sandbag, but retain the fat of the crabs.
Cut in half and break large claws, wash
and dry. Fry in hot lard, add onien, green
peppers and tomatoes. Let all smother
well, then add hot water and all other sea­sonings.
Simmer for about 1 hour. Just
before serving, beat flour and eggs into a
smooth paste (no lumps). Thin with some
of the clear gravy and add gradually to .
crab stew. Stir all well and add generous
piece of butter. Serve with Louisiana
boiled rice.
RICE (Creole style)
Pick rice clean. The whiteness of rice de­pends
upon its being washed thoroughly
in cold water, rubbing it well with the
hands, and rinsing repeatedly to remove all
flour dust. The secret of properly cooked
rice is to have salted water boiling before
inserting rice. The cold rice will cause
water to cease boiling until it becomes
-10-
heated. Until this happens rice should be
stirred occasionally to prevent sticking to
bottom of pot, but as soon as it boils again
do not touch. Cover and let boil about 20
minutes or until grains begin to swell and
thicken. and practically done. When this
stage is reached, put in collander and pour
cold water through it and set in oven for a
·few minutes to dry, or else place the col­lander
or strainer over hot water to finish
swelling and drying. This last is called
.. steamed rice." Rice should be cooked so
that each grain is separate.
NOTE: ·
Rice is a standing dish on every Creole
table, is served in all Southern restaurants
as well as in New Orleans.
T ANTE THERESE'S FRIED
SOFT SHELL CRABS
1 doz. soft shell crabs, 2 or 3 eggs, flour,
salt and pepper, Yz lb. lard.
First of all, see that crabs are perfectly
fresh, in fact, still kicking. Wash carefully,
using cold water. Never scald. Remove
from shell covering and cut off spongy
fingery substance at each side, also mouth,
eyes, and sandbag under the mouth. If
there .is still sand clinging, wash again and
dry between a towel. Salt and pepper and
roll in flour. Dip in beaten . egg and fry
in hot grease. There should be enough of
hot grease for crabs to swim in it. Fry on
both sides, and drain on brown paper or
wire strainer. Serve with a tartar sauce
and lemon.
TARTAR SAUCE
To ordinary mayonnaise add a kitchen
spoon of finely chopped shallots, 2 tea­spoons
minced parsley, 1 minced pickle, 2
or 3 minced olives, about 1 teaspoon of
French mustard.
FRIED FROG LOAF
6 frog legs and breasts (they must be
young), olive oil, lemon, parsley, butter,
salt and pepper.
Clean, skin and scald frogs in boiling
lemon juice and salt. Dry and sprinkle
with pepper and salt, pass in cornmeal, and
fry in hot oiL Cut a loaf of bread in half,
remove some of the soft part, and toast
halves slightly. Spread with butter, place
a few lettuce leaves on one half and lay on
this fried frogs. Garnish with pickle and
lemon parsley. Place other half of bread
on top and serve hot.
OYSTER MELBA*
2 doz. medium oysters, 1 ~ tablespo..o11s
butter or lard, ~ cup minced shallots, ~
kitchen spoon flour, thyme and parsley, 2
birdeye peppers or equivalent, 1 cup oyster
water, 2 tablespoons white wine, salt and
pepper to taste, Melba toast.
Melt butter, brown flour, being careful not
to burn. Add shallots and minced season­ings
and let alf fry well before inserting
drained warm oyster liquid. Let simmer
well or until gravy thickens, then add wine
and simmer a while longer. Add oysters
about 15 or 20 minutes before serving .as
too much cooking will toughen them.
Spread on Melba toast, garnish with slices
of lemon, watercress or any green salad,
and serve with French fry or Brabant pota­toes.
MAYLIE'S OYSTER ST. JACQUES*
6 or 8 oyster shells, 3 doz. large oysters, 3
kitchen spoons minced shallots, 2 table­spoons
minced garlic and parsley, sprig of
thyme, 2 eggs, 2 birdeyes, 1 kitchen spoon
lard, salt, and pepper to taste, dash of
tabasco, 3 thick slices stale French bread,
or about the same amount of corn bread.
Drain and wipe oysters and place in skillet
on slow fire to blanch; keep water to soak
bread. Chop oysters. Brown shallots, then
oysters and let fry well. Add all other SC'cl·
sonings and bread already soaked . and
squeezed slightly. Let all smother well.
Remove from fire and cool a little before
beating in eggs. If too stiff, add a little
milk. Stuff shells, sprinkle over with bread
crumbs and dot with butter. Bake about
15 or 20 minutes. Serve with drawn but­ter
and asparagus tips.
OYSTER VOL-AU-VENT*
1 Vol-au-vent (extra large pattie shell) ma'Y
be purchased at most bakeries, 4 dozen me­dium
oysters, 1 cup diced, large shrimp
(parboiled and sanded), 1 cup minced shal­lots,
1 kitchen spoon minced green pepper
and celery, 1 large tomato (seeded and
peeled), 1 tablespoon minced garlic and
parsley, 1 cup mushrooms, 1 ~ tablespoons
flour, 2 kitchen spoons white wine, sprig
of thyme, 2 birdeye peppers, 1 kitche,1
spoon good lard or butter, salt and pepper
to taste.
Heat lard, brown flour, add onion, then
green sweet pepper, celery and tomatoes.
Smother well before adding strained o·yster
water and mushroom liquid. Let come to
a hard boil before adding mushrooms,
thyme, garlic and parsley and birdeyes. Let
all simmer until gravy thickens well be-
-11-
:
I
:
'·
fore adding white wine, then blanched oys­ters
and shrimp and let stew about 20
minutes. If oysters are cooked too long
they will become tough. Fill vol-au-vent
shell with stew and place in oven to crisp.
Place on platter, cover with top and garnish
with fresh water cress. Serve buttered
green peas with vol-au-vent.
Patty shells may be substituted for vol-au­vent.
OYSTERS en BROCHETTE
Wipe oysters we_ll and stick through with
a skewer. Alternate with a piece of bacon.
Put ·about 4 to 6 oysters on each skewer.
Broil in a pan, turning occasionally. Place
on a platter, salt and pepper and pour over
them drawn butter. Garnish ·with lemon
and parsley, olives.
SHELLFISH MELBA':'
6 hard shell crabs (boiled) or equivalent
of freshly picked crab meat, 1 lb. boiled
large lake shrimp, 1 to 2 doz. salty oysters
(according to size), 1 onion or preferably
equivalent shallots, about 3 tablespoons
tomato paste, 1 tablespoon minced sweet
green pepper, sprig of ·thyme, 1 cup of cut
mushrooms, 2 or 3 birdeye peppers. J
tablespoon minced garlic and parsley, 1
kitchen spoon flour, 2 egg yolks, salt a11d
pepper, 8 slices or more of Melba toast,
butter for frying, watercress.
Chop meat of crabs and shrimp slightly.
Fry ·same in tablespoon or more of butter.
Brown onion,~ green pepper and mushrooms.
Add tomato paste, thyme and hot peppers,
garlic and parsley, salt and pepper. Smother
well, then add one cup of hot mushroom
water and hot oyste£ liquid and simmer L2
hour. Chop blanched oysters and add to
the above, cooking a few minutes
longer. Beat egg yolks and mix into flour,
making sure that it is a smooth paste so
that no lumps will form when added to
first ingredients. Salt and pepper to taste.
This gravy should be of a heavy consistency
so as not to run off the bread. Place
spoonful on Melba toast and cover with
strips of same. Garnish with watercress
and serve with green peas.
OYSTERS ROCKEFELLER
Remove oysters from shells, wash, drain,
and replace on cleansed shells. Set them
on tray or platter of hot ice-cream salt. Run
under broiler flame for about five min­utes
or until oysters begin to shrink. Have
ready to pour over oysters the sauce made
of the following ingredients:
~ head green lettuce, ~ bunch of spinach,
Y2 bunch of shallots, 4 stalks bf greett
celery, 1 bouquet of parsley, 2 sprigs of
thyme, three-quarters cup of toasted and
sifted bread or c1·acke1· crumb-s, 1 cup . ot
good butter, 1 cup each of plain water and
oyster water, 1 Yz tablespoons Worcester­shire
Sauce, 1 oz. absinthe, a little lemon
juice.
Grind vegetables in chopper. Let boil
quickly, plain and oyster water together, tO
nearly Yz quantity, add chopped vegetables
and cook until sauce becomes thick. In­sert
Worcestershire sauce and stir in but­ter,
absinthe and lemon juice. Mix all
well and cover oysters with same. · Sprin­kle
with bread crumb and return to oven
to brown. It is best to serve oysters JO
the platter in which they have been cooked
so that shells win keep hot.
WHISKIED BOILED CRAWFISH':'
Years ago when Mme. Esparbe served
boiled crawfish she never failed to throw
one-half pint of good whiskey over these
crustaceans immediately after they had
been boiled and drained. This is the secret
of the mysterious flavor that had so many
guessing. Try it, if only once.
For about 10 or 12 lbs. of crawfish use
one heaping khchen spoon of cayenne, 2
bay leaves, enough salt to season well. Boil
in plenty water. Draiu and pour Yz pinr
whiskey over all. Serve cold.
BAKED FILET de TRUITE with
MUSHROOMS and WHITE WINE
GRAVY':'
8 or 10 filets of trout, 1 minced onion of
shallots preferably, 1 tablespoon minced
garlic and parsley, 1 small can of mush­rooms,
2 level tablespoons flour, 1 kitchen
spoon olive oil, sprig of thyme, 2 kitchen
spoons white wine, 2 birdeye peppe1"S, .l
tablespoon butter, salt and pepper, few thin
slices of lemon plus a tablespoon of lemon
iuice.
Wipe filets with a damp cloth. Sprin­kle
salt and pepper. Roll ·and pass well
in flour. Place in baking dish after stick­ing
a toothpick in each filet to prevent
uncurling. Heat olive oil, brown flour
slightly, and fry onion or shallots and
mushroom water and one cup of hot water
and bring to a boil. Insert thyme, garlic
and parsley, birdeyes or hot pepper. Let
simmer until gravy gets slightly heavy.
Pour in wine and then pour mixture over
fish. Dot with lemon, lemon juice and
butter. Salt and pepper to taste again.
Bake in moderate oven until done and
gravy has become thick. Serve with a
boiled potato garnished with minced par­sley.
-1,2-
.Century old bronze ·bell, from the
Poydras Street Market.
Imported granite stone, used to sup­port
pillar of l\tlarket.
The old bronze bell from the Poydras Market, used 85 or 90
years ago, to ring "curfew" on the market activities every day
at morning, noon and night, reposes on top the ice box in May­lie's
quaintly furnished bar and occasionally is used by ban­queters
to call their crowd together to start marching to "come
and get it."
Below this antique is found another, it being one of the many
granite stones imported from abroad to help support the iron
pillars that held the long roof of the Poydras Market. When
this last was demolished, Mr. Maylie managed to get it as a
souvenir. He was proud of the many old thirigs he had col­lected
and preserved, and also of his staff which stuck to him
through thick and thin, Among them Albert Booth Campbell,
negro cook and waiter, who came to work for the elder Maylie
in 1897.
-13-
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1l.:i
1:.
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I.I
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Fowl and Meats
SOUTH ERN STYLE, FRIED
SPRING CHICKEN a Ia Lula
2 spring chickens, 1 cup flour, Yz cup
sweet cream, 1 qt. vegetable oil, salt and
pepper to taste.
Clean chickens and quarter. Place on ke
over night. Salt and pepper. __ Pass in
flour lightly and dip in cream then pass
lightly in flour again. Fry in hot oil until
golden brown. Serve hot with a vegetable.
ROASTED CAPON OR TURKEY
with CHESTNUT and PECAN
DRESSING
1 capon or 1 hen turkey, 2 lbs. of chest­nuts,
1 lb. of /at pecans, lard, salt and pep­per
to taste.
Clean and prepare fowl for stuffing. Salt
and pepper, in and out. Have ready chest­nuts
and pecans to fill bowl. Close craw
and trunk and lard bird well. Place in a
baking pan. Baste often, turning now and
then. To prepare the chestnuts do as fol­lows:
Rinse chestnuts. Slash each one
and put into cold salted water. Let bo1l
until done. Drain and· peel as soon as pos:
sible so that nuts will be warm to insert
with picked fat pecans. The filling will
absorb the juice of the steaming inside
of fowl. After-bird has roasted some pour
in a little water to prevent juices frQm
drying. Basting often is important. Bake
about 20 minutes to the pound. Serve w:ith
a combination salad.
MUSCOVY DUCK or GOOSE
ROAST with -OYSTER DRESSING
Either of the above fowls when properly
prepared is extremely tasty, but they must
by all means be young and tender.
To get best results in the preparation, duck
and geese should never be scalded to pick
the feathers. They should be hand-picked
and allow about 20 to 25 minutes cooking
for every pound. Stuff with an oyster
dressing as follows:
~lanch 4 dozen oysters and chop well. Fry
m. butter a minced ~nion with a cupful of
mmced shallots. Mmce well one-fourth of
a pound of fat boiled ham and liver from
fowl, add to the above. Season with a
sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon of minced
garlic and parsley and add chopped oys­ters.
Let all fry well. Add 2 birdeye pep-pers
or equivalent hot pepper, salt and
pepper. Now insert a cupful of chopped
bread that has been soaked in milk and
squeezed. Let aii fry thoroughly. Re­move
from fire a while to cool before beat·
ing in 2 or 3 eggs (according to size). Stuff
fowl's body and craw and sew both ends
up, put into roasting pan rubbing well
with lard. Pour in about a half of cup of
hot water. Basting often, about 10 minutes
apart, will make the fowl juicy.
DAUBE GLACE'
1 thick beef round, about .3 lbs., with bone,
2 pigs' feet, 2 calves' feet, 6 or 8 shallots,
3 cloves of garlic, 1 large sprig of thyme,
3 or 4 birdeye peppers or equivalettt red
hot pepper, 1 bay lea/, 2 sticks of celery, 2
carrots, sliced green peppers, 1 tablespoon
chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon salt, sliced
lemon, 1 glass claret.
Have butcher lard meat with diced squares
of fresh pork fat. Put steak to soak over­night
in icebox with all seasoning and
wine. In the morning put all in a deep
pot and cover wjth plenty of cold water.
Insert {>ig and calf feet and let all come to
a quick boil; then reduce heat and simmer
3 to 4 hours until meat and feet are tender
enough to remove bones. In the course of
simmering, grease will form on top. Re­move
same from time to time. When done
and liquid has reduced enough, remove
from fire. Pick ->ut whole carrots, slice
and place piece:~~ 1n bottom of mould. Lift
meats carefully and place in mould, place
rest of carrot pieces on sides and top.
Strain liquid and pour over meat. Sprinkle
a little minced pauley and place slices of
lemon on top. When cool enough put into
refrigerator to congeal.
VEAL BLANQUETTE*
2 lbs. ·young veal brisket, 1 onion, 1 table,
spoon flour, 1 tablespoon minced garlic
and parsley, 2 birdeyes, 1 sprig of thyme,
1 teaspoon capers, 2 egg yolks, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 pt. stock.
~emove as much bone and gristle as pos·
stble from the veal, cut into small pieces
and fry well on all sides. Brown flour and
onion and insert hot stock and rest of sea­sonings.
Let all simmer slowly until liquid
has reduced to about half. Add a little
gravy to beaten yolks before mserting same
into stew. Do not let cook any more as
eggs will curdle.
-14-
STUFFED VEAL ROUND
a Ia NOUVELLE ORLEANS':'
2 baby veal rounds (Yz -inch thick), 2
onions, 1 small bell pepper, .3 or 4 Creole
tomatoes, 1 tablespoon flour, Yz lb. fat
boiled ham, 1 tablespoon .minced garlic
and pepper, 2 sprigs of thyme, three-quur­ters
of a pint of bee/ stock,, 1 cup of stale
bread and crumbs, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon
grated cheese, 2 tablespoons lard, 2 pieces
of hot red pepper, 0 cup of dried mush­rooms
or equivalent canned, salt and pep­per
to taste.
Stuff each round with a dressing made as
follows: Fry one minced onion in half
the lard or butter, add bread and crumbs
and Yz of the garlic, parsley, thyme, hot
pepper, then ham and let all smother well,
stirring to keep from scorching. Remove
from fire and let cool somewhat before
adding beaten egg and grated cheese, salt
and pepper to taste. Place half on each
round, roll and tie well to prevent the stuff­ing
from escaping. Fry rounds lightly,
and remove from fire. Make a Creole
gravy with the flour and other onion,
green pepper, tomatoes and mushrooms
and seasonings. Smother well then add
mushroom liquid and stock and let come
to a boil. Insert veal rolls and let simmer
for three-quarters of an hour. Stir occa­sionally.
Serve with buttered noodles or
cream potatoes.
If dried mushrooms are used, soak in warm
water to soften same.
SPAGHETTINI en CASSEROLE
a I'ITALIENNE
2 lbs. of chopped veal and pork meat, 1 lb.
spaghettini, 1 onion, 1 fried eggplant (in
oil), 1 kitchen spoon tomato paste, 1 cttP
of Italian canned tomatoes, 1 green sweet
pepper, 2 birdeyes, 1 cup of mushrooms, 1
tablespoon of minced garlic and parsley,
sprig of thyme, salt and pepper to taste,
bee/ stock, grated cheese.
Boil spaghettini (extra fine spaghetti) in
salted water until tender but not pasty. Fry
separately sliced eggplant and ground
meat, that have been salted and peppered.
Keep both warm, but off fire. Make gravy
while spaghettini is boiling. Saute the
minced onion, green pepper, and Italian
tomatoes, then mushrooms and tomato
paste. Let all smother well then add rest
of seasonings and the liquid from the
mushrooms and a little beef stock or hot
water. Salt and pepper and let boil until
gravy is done and thick enough to use. Di­vide
the spaghettini into about three equal
portions. Place first portion in a pyrex
dish, then a layer of fried meats, a layer of
fried eggplant then -part of gravy and
grated cheese. · Repeat the process and end
up by covering with third layer of spa­ghettini
and grated cheese and more gravy.
Bake in moderately hot oven for about Yz
hour.
MME. ESPARBE'S BEEF DAUBE
and MACARONI au GRATIN
.3 lbs. beef round /rom shoulder, 1 small
slice of /at salt meat, 1 large onion, 6
young carrots, 2 tablespoons lard, 2 tom­atoes,
2 tablespoons flour, 1 bay lea/, sprig
of thyme, 1 tablespoon minced garlic an.d
parsley, piece of hot pepper.., 2 qts. hot
water or stock, Yz glass claret, salt and
pepper to taste.
Fry beef round first and remove from pot.
Fry salt meat in same lard. Brown flour
then chopped onion and se~ded and
skinned tomatoes and carrots. Add all other
seasonings and let smother a while. Insert
hot stock or water and let come to a hard
boil before returning beef round. Cover
well and let simmer for about 20 min. and
then turn daube over on other side, cook
a little more and add claret. Cover well
and cook on slow fire.
MACARONI AND CHEESE
Boil 1 lb. of macaroni until tender but
not mushy. Drain and place on a large
platter. Stir in butter and grated Swiss
cheese and a little Italian cheese. Pour 4
little of the daube gravy over all and
sprinkle /ine crumbs on top. Pass in oven
a few minutes;
MME. ESPARBE'S BROI~ED
BEEFSTEAK or FILET MIGNON
aux CEPES
Cepes are a kind of mushroom, being much
larger and· flatter. They sometimes come as
large as a plate and can be still found in
the piney woods of St. Tammany Parish
as a rule, but the canned ones are imported
from France and being quite expensive are
not generally used as much as the mush­room.
Mme. always insisted on having h*!r
steaks of the best quality, never using any­thing
but the Porterhouse and Tenderloin
when she could not get the Filet Mignon.
As one still knows, a steak broiled ovP.r
coals is of a tastier quality and she, having
a large Charter Oak stove, the broiling
place in front of her stove was in use nearly
every day.
-15-
The steaks were placed between a double
wire broiler with a long handle. One side
was broiled and then turned but never
turned back to ·the first side. In frying a
steak she was also careful never to turn it
before it was brown and really done "au
point," never frying a side twice. She
salted her steaks while they were cooking,
not before nor after. When done it w.1s
placed in a hot platter with butter and
the cepes that had been drained of their
oil, well dried, salted and peppered and
fried in olive oil with a "persiliade" of
chopped parsley and garlic. This was and
still is a favorite French dish, and one
which Madame served with pleasure a'
she knew it was a man's dish.
FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN
au CHOU-FLEUR*
1 fat young hen of about 4 or 5 lbs., 1
onion, 1 cauliflower, 2 tomatoes, · 1 Y2
tablespoons /lour, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 table­spoon
of garlic and parsley minced, salt and
pepper to taste, a piece of hot red pepper,
lard and beef stock.
Clean chicken and cut at joints, rinse and
dry. Fry well on all sides and remove
from pot. Brown flour then onion and
tomato, then add stock (about 1 qt.). Insert
seasonings and return chicken, let all come
to a boil and then simmer for 1 Yz hours.
Add cauliflower that has been par-boiled
and broken into large pieces, being careful
not to stir same too much as it- will go to
pieces. Let simmer a while longer. Salt and
pepper to taste. When ready to serve, lift
out of pot carefully to prevent cauliflower
breaking.
POULET a Ia CREOLE':'
1 chicken (large springer), 1 kitchenspoon
lard, 2 tablespoons flour, 3 large tomatoes
1 large green sweet pepper, 1 large onion.,
1 tablespoon minced garlic and parsle31
sprig of thyme, 1 cup boiling water or
consomme, salt and pepper.
Cut chicken at joints, wash and dry and
season well with pepper and salt. Melt lard
and fry chicken on all sides. Have ready
sliced onion and green pepper. Add this
to the chicken and let brown in the fl~ur.
Add skinned and seeded tomatoes, let cook
well then insert thyme, garlic and parsley.
Stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Con­somme
may now be added. Cover well and
let cook well on a slow but steady fire for
Y2 hour. Salt and pepper to taste and serve
with creamed potatoes or steamed rice.
CHICKEN, SAUCE BLANCHE
au CAP RES':'
1 young fat he_n. small Piece of salt met:~;t
about 2 inches long) 1 tablespoon garltc
and parsley, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 kitchen
spoon flour, 1 tablespoon capers, small
piece hot pepper, about 1 kitchen spoon
lard, 1 pt. hot water or stock, 2 egg yolks,
l teaspoon vin:egar, salt and pepper to
taste.
Wash and dry after cutting chicken into
pieces. Fry well on all sides. Remove from
pot. Brown flour in this same grease, also
salt meat, then minced onion. Pour in hot
water and return chicken to pot. Salt and
pepper and _let come to a hard boil, then
add garlic, parsley, hot pepper and capers.
Let simmer until chicken is done-one
hour or more. Just before serving, beat
egg yolks and vinegar together. To keep
eggs from curdling, take about one kitchen
spoon of hot gravy, stir this into eggs care­fully
and then add to rest Of gravy and
chicken. The sauce should be somewhat
thick. ·
NOTE:
Young calf feet may be prepared likewise
but they must be thoroughly cleaned and
scraped before boiling in water. When par­boiled
the water will be like gelatine (when
cooled). Use this instead of hot water as
in the chicken.
GIBLET STEW a Ia COMPAGNE
Giblets of T_urkey, ducks, etc., 1 tablespoon
/lour, 2 carrots and 1 onion, 1 cup of
fresh or canned tomatoes, Yz green sweet
pepper, 1 tablespoon minced garlic and
parsley, 2 birdeyes, sprig of thyme, small
piece of bay lea/, 1 qt. beef stock or hot
water, 1 can fine green peas, 2 or 3 potatoes
if desire4_, 1 sliver of salt pork.
Use the wings, neck, gizzard and heart,
but if more meat is needed, add a small
piece of veal. Fry the foregoing and remove
from pot, then fry salt meat. Brown flour,
carrots, onion, green pepper and tomato.
Add other seasonings and let smother
awhile then add beef stock or hot water
and let come to a boil. Return giblets and
let simmer for 1 hr. or more. Potatoes and
drained green peas may now be· inserted.
Cook until potatoes are done.
NOTE:
Most people make a gumbo with the car­cass
and what is left of the turkey. Try
using these leftovers in the above recipe,
it makes an excellent dish.
-16-
TRIPE a Ia CREOLE
2 lbs. tripe, 1 sliver of /at salt meat, 1
minced onion, 2 tomatoes, 1 small green
sweet pepper, 1 tablespoon garlic and PtW­sley
(minced), thyme, 2 birdeyes, Yz
kitchen spoon of lard.
Rinse the tripe well in hot water and dry
thoroughly. Cut into narrow and short
strips or dice. Melt lard and fry salt meat,
· drop tripe in same, frying well before
adding onion, also skinned and seeded tom­atoes,
and green pepper. Let all smother
well, then add other seasonings. Add 1 pt.
of beef broth and let simmer for 1 hour.
Parsleyed Irish potatoes, boiled or sauted
go well with tripe a la Creole.
KIDNEY au MARCHAND de YIN
2 pairs young calf kidneys, 1 minced onion
or 1 doz. shallots, Yz kitchen spoon flour,
1 tablespoon garlic and parsley (minced),
Yz pt. stock or hot water, ~ glass red or
madeira wine, 3 birdeye peppers, sprig of
thyme, 1 heaping tablespoon lard, salt and
pepper to taste.
Rinse and dry kidneys. Cut into small
pieces. Fry well and push to one side of
saucepan. Brown flour and onions and
other seasonings. Pour in hot stock and let
come to a boil and then let simmer for
about 15 minutes, adding wine about 5
minutes before ready to serve.
SMOTHERED CALF TONGUE or
WHOLE SUCKLING CALF LIVER
If calf tongue is to be used, remember to
parboil same in order to remove outer
coating. When using calf liver, care must be
taken to cut out veins as much as possible
without ruining shape of liver. Outer skin
must also be removed. Proceed to prepare
either of these in the same manner as the
kidney, with the exception of "no wine."
Instead, put a sour gherkin and a little more
liquid in the tongue but not the liver.
SWEETBREADS
Sweet breads often occupy an important
place at a Maylie dinner and is a typical
New Orleans entree on account of its del­icacy.
The sweet breads should be those
taken from very young or suckling calves.
They should be trimmed of nerves, veins,
fibers, skins and blood, washed well and
soaked in salted water for about an hour,
drained and returned to salted cold water
and let blanche till they come to a boil.
Drain again and dry. They now are ready
for general _ use.
MME. ESPARBE'S SWEET BREAD
FRICASSE or RIS de VEAU aux
CHAMPIGNON (Sauce au Yin.)
4 sweet breads, 1 sliver of salt fat meat
or bacon, 1 onion, 1 small can mushrooms,
1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon flour,
sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon of minced
garlic and parsley, 1 pt. of beef stock, 2
birdeyes or equivalent hot pepper, salt and
pepper to taste, 1 glass white wine.
Fry sweetbread well and remove from
saucepan. Fry fat salt meat in butter or lard
then brown flour, onion, mushrooms,
(drained). Then add all other seasoning
and let smother, now add mushroom water
and beef stock and let come to a hard boil.
Return sweetbreads then let simmer for
about one-half hour. Insert wine about 20
minutes before serving. Serve with potato
chips and Petit Pois Fins. It may also be
used to fill Patty shells but when this is
done use a little more flour in the Roux.
WILD DUCKS STEWED with TURNIPS
2 wild ducks, 2 bunches of turnips or about
2 doz. medium size, 1 onion, 1 kitchen
· spoon lard, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon
minced garlic and parsley, sprig of thyme,
small piece of hot pepper, 1 pt. of hot
water, salt and pepper to taste.
Clean ducks and cut up into pieces rinse
and dry. Heat lard and fry duck well. Re­move
from pot and this same grease make
roux with flour and onion. Also fry peeled
turnips on all sides. Insert hot water and
other seasonings and let all come to a hard
boil. Replace duck and then let simmer
for one hour or more. If ducks are fat there
will be too much grease, remove before
serving.
VEAL GRILLADE AND GRITS
2 veal rounds, 1 onion, 2 tomatoes, garlic
and parsley, 1 sweet green pepper, thyme,
salt and pepper, 2 tablespoons /tour, 2
birdeyes, beef broth.
Cut rounds into large pieces, salt and pep­per,
fry in Yz kitchen spoon lard. Remove
from fire and . brown flour in same grease,
then onion) green pepper, tomatoes and
other season·ings. Pour · in 1 cup of beef
broth or hot water and let boil, then re­turn
veal to gravy and let simmer for Yz
hour or more, according to quality of
rounds. Serve with boiled grits and fried
bacon if desired.
-17-
FRAISE de VEAU a Ia CAROUCHET
(Chitterlings)
Wash well two lbs. chitterlings. in cold
water. Place in hot water, and bot! for 20
minutes. Add a sprig of thyme a0:d bay
leaf and a small piece of celery. Stram and
cut into mushroom size pieces. Add to
following gravv:
Melt a stick of butter in deep saucet;tan,
fry' one cup or more of chopped s~allots,
2 cloves or garlic; let same brc_>wn hghtly,
add 1 tablespoon of flour, a pmch of cay­enne
pepper, to taste. When well smoth­ered
add 1 qt. of beef stock or hot water.
Let gravy and chitterling (chitlins as the
negroes call it) boil, then simmer for Yz
hr. or more. Remove from fire and add a
small bottle of capers and three egg yolks
that have been well beaten with a small
quantity of cold water. Insert one table­spoon
of minced parsley, . serve. very hot,
being careful not to let bot! agam as yolks
of eggs will brush or curdle.
STUFFED VEAL POCKET a Ia MAYLIE
( Epaule de Veau Fa rei)
1 veal shoulder, (have bone removed to
form pocket) one-quarter lb. of fat green
shoulder, (salted pork) 1 tablespoon of
garlic and parsley, (minced) 2 cups ·of the
inside of stale bread, leaves of a. sprtg of
thyme, 5 to 6 eggs, salt and pepper to taste.
Wipe veal and ·pocket well with a damp
towel. Make stuffing as follows:
Mince salt meat and fat with garlic, par­sley,
and thyme. Place this in a bowl and
add dry bread. break eggs into this, beat
and mash into a pulp, salt and pepper to
taste. Stuff pocket and sew. Lard veal well
and place in baking pan. After same begins
·to bake, salt and pepper and as it browns
bast01 and turn. Salt and pepper other side
again basting often. It should bake slowly
for about two hours. A little water may be
added as juice drys. When roast is taken
from pan, remove the grease as much as
possible and dilute a little water in pan so
as to make gravy with the dried juice.
Slice roast across so that meat surrounds
stuffing. Serve with a chicory or other
green salad.
I I
LAMB AND TURNIP-Bonne Menagere*
2 lbs. lamb brisket /or stew, 1 doz. turnips,
1 narrow strip of /at salt meat, 1 onion,
1 tomato or equivalent can tomato, 1 table­spoon
flour, branch of celery, 1 tablespoon
minced Pa1·sley and garlic, thyme, 2 bird­eye
peppers, salt and pepper to taste, 1 pt.
of hot water or stock.
Peel turnips, and if small leave whole, or
else cut in two. Fry lamb, then turnips and
remove from pot. Brown flour, then salt
meat, onion, and tomato and pour in about
1 pt. of hot water or stock. Insert all other
seasonings and let come to a hard boil.
Return lamb and turnips and simmer for
1 hr.
NOTE:
The word· bonne-menagere means good
manager, and it is this last who can and
will make use of left-overs to make savory
dishes. The above recipe calls for lamb
brisket. If any left-over roast lamb is avail­able
use it, (after cutting off the bone)
along with juice and gravy. This is an ex­cellent
substitute, and makes a most pal­atable
dish.
BRAINS AU BEURRE NOIR
One calf brain, butter for sauce, 1 table­spoon
parsley, 1 onion, thyme and parsley,
salt and pepper.
Prepare brains by plunging in cold water
to remove blood and fine skins that en­velope
same. Then blanch in scalding water.
Fry in butter and a little flour. Insert
minced onion or shallot add thyme and
parsley (minced). Season to taste and serve
with a sauce as follows:
BROWN BUTTER SAUCE
Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a saucepan
and when it begins to brown add a sprig
of parsley and let brown a minute or so
longer. Now add 2 tablespoons of lemon ·
and let simmer another minute or so. Serve
hot with the above recipe or broiled fish.
JAMBALAYA a Ia CREOLE
(This is a popular Spanish-Creole dish, and
a great favorite in N. 0.)
1 Y2 cups of Louisiana Rice, 1 tabfespoon
butter. 1 slice of raw fat ham, 1 doz.
chaurice (hot pork sausage), 1 cup boiled
shrimp, 1 minced onion, 2 Creole tomatoes,
1 sweet green pepper, sprig of thyme, 1 bay
leaf, 2 cloves, 1 tablespoon minced garlic
and parsley, 1 Y2 'qts. of beef stock and
water, salt and pepper to taste, Cayenne,
if desired very hot,
Cut ham into small pieces, fry it and
shrimp and chaurice in butter. Add onwn
and green pepper then tomatoes. Add herbs
and garlic and parsley then hot beef stock
and water, salt and pepper and boil a few
minutes. Add rice which has been care­fully
washed. Cayenne may be added. Cook
until rice is done or swelled, but not mushy
and serve hot.
-18-
BROILED SQUAB ON TOAST
A pair of Squab (young pigeon before
leaving nest), sweet oil, lemon, and bacon
strips, salt and pepper, bread for toast.
Clean and split birds down the back to
make 4 portions. Salt and pepper and sat­urate
with olive oil and lemon juice. Place
in flat pan after pinning on bacon strips
with tooth picks. Broil on both sides in
oven. Toast and butter bread and place
squab on same. Serve with shoe-string or
french fried potatoes. Garnish with parsley
and lemon and serve with a green salad
such as ro_quette or cress.
NOTE:
Dove and spring chicken are also prepared
as the above. Small wild birds, too, except
that they are left whole.
LEG OF LAMB ROAST (OR BEEF RIB
ROAST) AND MINT JELLY
1 lamb leg, a few butto.ns of garlic, salt
and pepper, Mint Jelly, parsley.
Usu~lly, lamb is served in New Orl':!ans
as a standing dish for the Easter dinner.
Wipe with a damp towel. Insert whole
. garlic in lamb by making a hole with a
pointed knife. Put a buttoon in here and
there. Dredge with lard, salt and pepper
well. Place in a quick oven and bake, bast­ing
every 10 minutes. It should
never be too cooked, as Creoles serve it
rare. W'hcn pricked with a fork if juice
runs out, it will be ready to serve. Serve
with a mint jelly and its own juice.
Roast beef is prP.pared likewise, but one
must select a full cut of tenderloin of about
-4 or 5 ribs. By le.aving the bones in the
roast the meat will be sweeter. Beef .roa!>t
should always be rate allowing about 15
minutes to every pound. Serve with its
own gravy and Potato Salad. ·
NOTE:
To avoid shrinkage of roast of any kind.
cook same slowly with fat side up. A roast
put into the oven before the heat is turned
on will turn out better.
CIVET de LAPIN (RABBIT)
A pair of young rabbits, 2 tablespoons
flour, 1 minced onion, 2 tomatoes or 2
kitchen spoons of semi-thick tomato paste,
1 bay lea/, sprig of thyme, 1 tablespoon
minced garlic and pepper, Yz glass claret,
1 qt. beef stock or hot water, a piece of hot
pepper, salt and pepper to taste. (If possibl~
chives should be used instead of onion.)
Clean and cut rabbits into pieces. Let mar­inate
over night to remove wild taste. Mar­inate
is to steep in liquor made of vinegar
sliced orlions, bay leaf, thyme, parsley
whole spice, salt and pepper, and hot pep~
per. When ready to prepare civet, remove
rabbit from liquor, rinse and dry, then fry
on all sides. Brown onion in flour, then
add tomatoes. Let smother well before add­ing
hot stock. Let come to a boil and insert
all other seasonings. Cover well and simmer
for one hour or more. Pour in wine a short
while before serving. Serve with Potato
Croquettes.
STEWED CUISSON de CHEVREUIL
(VENISON)
Rin~e hau!lch or a piece of venison and
marmate JUSt as is done for rabbit. UsP
same _Proportions. and ingredients and pre­pare
Just. as for ctve~, using any style pota­toes
or rtce to go wtth it.
BAKED MALLARD DUCKS
1 Pair of wild ducks, 1 kitchen spoon but­ter,
4 cloves of garlic and 6 olives, salt
and pepper.
Clean ducks and rinse and dry. Salt and
pepper well inside and out and place 2
cloves of garlic and 3 olives in each duck
with part of butter. Rub a piece of stale
crust with garlic and place in opening.
Truss and place ducks in baking pan with .
lard and melted butter on top of birds.
Pour over two to four tablespoons water
and set in a hot oven and bake about
one half hour. Wild ducks should not be
cooked dry and so they must be basted.
BRAIZED QUAIL
6 quail, 1 tablespoon minced carrot, 1
tablespoon minced green onion, ~ cup of
water, 2 heaping tablespoons of butter, 6
strips of bacon, salt and pepper to t11ste.
Choose 6 fat quail, clean, singe, truss, and
wipe well. Wrap a slice of .bacon around
each bird and pin with a toothpick. Melt
the butter in a saucepan and place quail
in same letting them brown slightly. Add
minced carrot and onion and let brown
also. Insert water and let simmer a little,
then set saucepan in oven and cover with
buttered paper. Cook for about 20 minutes.
NOTE:
The above thre::! recipes are given for the
convenience of tnose who wish to prepare
them at home. Restaurants in Louisiana
are not permitted to serve wild game.
-19-
The Wisteria, Our Spring Glory
The famous wisteria that grows through the roof of
Maylie's Restaurant and twines about its balconies for almost
the entire circumference of the building, is generally in bloom
for several weeks in the spring.
The wisteria's source, much to the amazement of the un­initiated,
is inside the restaurant. Though of only as a vine,
its treelike trunk is a constant source of wonder. This wisteria
is over fifty years old; drinks up a .bucket of water daily, and
legend has it that all the leftover wine is poured into its roots
to make the blossoms deeper in color.
Almost unbelievable is the fact that the vine's roots have
not had any sunlight or rainwater in nearly 35 years, because
of the fact that it was enclosed when the two buildings were
joined. Since then, the glass around the enclosure has been
cracked many times, due to the vine's growth.
The wisteria has brought into being a quaint custom.
Originated by William Maylie, Sr., patrons and guests of the
restaurant, on their first visit are asked to make a wish on the
wisteria trunk. Legend has it that the wish is sure to come
true.
-21-
Vegetables ·
POLE BEANS AND SMOKED PORK
2 lbs. string beans, 1 onion, 1 slice smoked
Pork (about 1 inch thick), 6 to 8 new Irish
potatoes, 1 sprig of thyme, 2 cloves of garlic,
0 tablespoon flour, salt and pepper to taste.
l.ut each side of bean to remove string.
Rinse and drip in collander. Fry salt meat
on both sides, then make a roux of flour,
onion, thyme, and garlic. Pour in about
one half glass of hot water and let come to
a quick boil. Decrease heat after inserting
string beans, let simmer until beans are
nearly done, then add potatoes. Salt and
pepper to taste. If string beans are par­boiled
at first, they will take less time to
cook in gravy, but they will lose a part of
their flavor.
CREOLE CABBAGE AND CORN BEEF
I head of Creole Cabbage, 1 onion, 1 lb.
cornbee/, 2 or 3 cloves, 1 sprig of thyme,
piece of hot red pepper, 2 buttons garlic,
2 or 3 large Irish potatoes.
Select a cabbage with fresh green and white
leaves. As a rule, the Creole cabbage is the
best, but the white may be substituted. This
last must be scalded to remove its strong
taste. Remove and discard the outer leaves.
Then, cut the cabbage into 4 or 6 pieces,
and cut away the hard parts as much as
possible. Boil cabbage with cornbeef. Fry
onion and whole garlic and add with cloves,
thyme and hot pepper to cabbage. Let all
smother for an hour or more. Put potatoes
in whole about Y2 hour before ready to
serve or long enough to cook through.
Salt and pepper to taste.
YOUNG CORN IN CREOLE SAUCE
~ doz. tender cob corn.
Remove all silk from corn and cleanse well.
Cut grain off cob finely scraping same to
get all the milk and thickness. Make a
Creole gravy following any foregoing recipe
explaining same. Add corn after it has
been browned. Let all smother well, but
stir often to prevent scorching.
MME. ESPARBE'S CHOU-CROUTE
AU PORK
2 lbs. Satterkrattt, 10 lbs. fresh pork, 0
lb. salt pork, piece of hot pepper, sprig of
thyme, 2 clove5, 2 buttons of garlic, 1 small
onion, 3 large Irish potatoes.
Soak kraut for about 2 hours. If it still has
too much vinegar, let hot water run
through same. Desalt pork and fry with
the fresh piece. Mash the whole garlic
and with the onion fry with pork. Insert
kraut and rest of seasonings and cover.
Let smother well stirring occasionally.
When about half done insert halved pota­toes.
Continue cooking and if kraut be­comes
too dry pour in a little water to
keep from scorching.
STUFFED CABBAGE
1 Creole cabb.:zge, 1 cup of minced /at boiled
ham, 1 onion, · 1 tablespoon butter, 1 table­spoon
minced garlic and parsley, leaves of
one sprig of thyme, 2 bird eye peppers, 1
cup or more of wet milked French stale
bread, 2 eggs,. salt and pepper to taste. ·
Wash cabbage thoroughly and remove outer
leaves. Parboil and drain. Open cabbage
leaves carefully without breaking so that
it can be filled in between with the fol!ow­ing
stuffing. Fry the onion and ham in
butter, and add this to the squeezed wet
bread with all the seasonings. Mash all
well in order to have a smooth filling. Beat
eggs into this well. If too dry add a little
milk. After stuffing cabbage, tie with a
heavy white thread, making it go around
and across several times. Bake in oven
about 20 minutes or more with a little but­ter.
When done remove thread and slice
across and serve hot with a Creole gravy.
RED BEANS AND RICE ALBERT*
1 qt. red beans (hand picked are best) , 1
slice of /at raw ham or ham bone, 1 otzion,
1 carrot, small piece of green sweet pepper,
salt and pepper to taste, sprig of thyme.
\Vash and soak beans over night. When
ready to cook drain off water and put
beans in fresh cold water, being sure there
is enough, as beans must cook thoroughly.
After water has heated, let simmer until
beans are semi-cooked before adding fried
ham or salt pork, .onion and carrot. Add
green pepper and thyme and salt and pep­per
to taste. Let boil slowly for an hour or
more. Serve with Louisiana boiled rice.
NOTE:
The above was named. for the negro
cook, Albert Booth Campbell, who has
been with Maylie's Restaurant for forty
years, and, incidentally, is its oldest em­ployee.
-22-
NAVY BEANS AU JUS D'AGNEAU
(Lamb)
1 lb.. navy beans, 1 ankle bone of salted
pork, 1 onion, 1 tablespoon of minced
rarlic and parsley, sprig of thyme, 2
whole, cloves, salt and pepper to taste
and 2 kitchen spoons of gravy from
lamb roast.
Navy beans go excellently with lamb
roast. Th!s was one of the dishes Mme.
Esparbe served weekly.
Wash, cover beans with water and soak
over-night. In the morning bring to a
boil. Let salted ankle bone also come
to a boil to remove some of the salt.
Fry same on both sides and add cut
onion and let brown slightly. Add beans
and water to onion and let all come to a
hard boil. Now add garlic, parsley, thyme,
cloves and a little salt and pepper. Let all
simmer until well done. Add lamb roast
gravy when ready to serve.
An economical way to cook navy beans is
to use the left-over lamb bone instead of
the salt meat.
MME. ESPARBE'S HAM AND
LIMA BEANS
1 medium thick slice of smoked ham, 1
cttP of Baby Lima Beans, a little flour,
1 onion minced, 1 large Creole tomato,
1 t a b l e s p o o n green sweet pepper, 1
tablespoon minced garlic and parsley,
thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 2 or 3
drops of peppered oil 1~ cups beef broth.
Fry ham whole, then onion, green pepper
and tomato in just a little flour (about
1 tsp.) as some beans will dissolve enough
to make the gravy thick. Insert stock and
all other seasoning. Cover well and let
stew on a simmer for Y2 to three-quarters
of an hour. Stir occasionally. If desired,
Irish potatoes may be added, otherwise
serve with rice.
HAM AND PEAS BONNE FEMME*
1 slice of /at raw ham (at least ~ inch
thick), 2 lbs. small green peas or 1 can
petit pois fin, 1 small onion, minced,
~ tablespoon flour, 1 lb. small New
Irish potatoes, 1 tablespoon minced gar­lic
and parsley, ~ kitchen spoon lard or
butter, sprig of thyme, 2 cloves, about one
glass of hot water or water from canned
peas, dash of tabasco, salt and pepper.
Wash and dry slice of ham. Fry whole and
set aside. Brown flour in this same grease,
then onion and potatoes. Add water and
let come· to a hard boil. Insert hams
thyme and other seasonings, then drained
green peas. If fresh peas are used parboil
first. Let all simmer well, for one hour.
CONGRI OR COWPEAS, CORN,
HAM AND RICE':'
1 cup of Louisiana rice, l cups cowpeas, 1
cup of corn, 1 onion, 1 tomato, 1 cup of
diced ham, 1 tablespoon of minced gar·
lie and parsley, sprig of thyme, a little
cayenne, salt and pepper to taste, a piece
of sweet green pepper.
Parboil fresh cowpeas, boil the rice sep­arately
until nearly done. Fry ham, on­ion,
then tomato and green pepper, and
let smother awhile. Add corn, garlic and
parsley. Pour off water from cowpeas and
add them with rest of seasonings to rice.
Let all simmer until rice has absorbed
gravy.
NOTE:
This is one of the many Creole dishes
prepared by eighty year-old Tante Therese
Coquillion, one of · the old negro Creole
cooks who was in the employ of the Maylie
family for over thirty years. ·
HAM MOUSSE*
About ~ cup left over fat ham or fresh
ham, ~ cup croutons of bread, 1 teaspoon
parsley, 1 tablespoon butter, about 2 table­spoons
milk, salt and pepper to taste, 4 to
6 eggs.
Cut ham into one inch pieces. Heat butter
well, taking good care not to burn. Insert
ham and let fry on all sides, then brown
croutons. Beat eggs until fluffy, adding
milk, parsley, salt and pepper. Pour into
ham and stir back and forth with a
kitchen fork, finally pushing omelette to
one side of skillet. This will make omelette
turn over into an oval shape. Serve with
a Creole sauce of tomatoes, onions and
green pepper.
STRING'BEANS JARDINIERE
2 qts. fresh string beans, 1 tablespoon flour;
1 onion, 1 lb. spareribs or raw bam, 1
tomato, garlic, parsley, thyme, 6 Red Irish
potatoes, salt and pepper to taste, 2 bird­eyes.
Select very fat and tender beans. Pare both
sides of bean to remove strings. Wash and
-23-
parboil. Drain and put into roux made
of flour, onion, tomato, and seasonings. If
ham is used fry same, otherwise drop par­boiled
spareribs into beans. Pour a little
hot water into beans to make a short
gravy and to cook potatoes. Before serv­ing
put in a little butter.
SQUASH OR CARROTS AU BEURRE
1h doz. squash, 1 onion, sliver of salt meat,
salt and pepper to taste ,one tablespoon or
more of butter, parsley.
Peel, core, and cut squash into small pieces.
Rinse and place in saucepan to smother
in their own water. After having simmered
.insert onion which has been frierd in butter
and salt-meat. Let all smother together
well, covering pot. Occasionally stir to
prevent scorching. Squash should have a
partly brownish look when done.
Carrots may be cooked same as above. They
have a natural sweetish taste when prepared
. -this way and remind one of sweet potatoes.
CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN
1 large cauliflower or 2 small ones, __ 1
onion, about 1h stick of butter, 2
birdeyes, grated cheese, lemon, salt and
pepper, breadcrumbs.
Put cauliflower, salt, onion and birdeyes
in a pot of cold water. Parboil or neatly
so. Drain and place Yz of the flowerettes
and cut stems in a pyrex or baking dish.
Dot ·with butter, sprinkle with cheese
(Gruyere) and then squeeze in a little lem­on.
Repeat with rest of ingredients but
this time place slices of lemon instead of
juice. Sprinkle well with breadcrumbs and
bake in moderate oven.
STUFFED MIRLETONS (vegetable
pears)
EGGPLANTS OR SQUASH
3 to 6 of any of the above, 1 oniotz,, 1
tomato, -1 very small green sweet pepper,
1 cup of squeezed milked bread, 2 cups of
minced boiled ham or equivalent of boiled
shrimp, ( 1 cup of each may be used if
desired), sprig of thyme, 2 birdeyes, 1
tablespoo11- minced garlic and parsley, 2
tablespoons butter, 2 eggs, breadcrumbs.
Boil vegtables after halving. Spoon out
meat and remove seeds. Heat Yz butter
and fry minced onion, minced green pep­per,
skinned and seeded tomato. Saute well,
add minced meat and let fry again. Now
-24-
insert bread and all seasonings and part
of remaining butter. Smother and mash
.bread into vegetable pulp so that it will
. be of a smooth consistency. Remove and
let cool, and then beat egg in well.
Stuff skin shells and sprinkle with crumbs
and dot with butter. Bake in a moderate
oven.
FRESH SPINACH AND EGGS
4 to 6 bunches of spinach (according to
size), 2 or 3 shallots, 1 sliv.er of salt meat,
(about the size of a piece of bacon), 1h
stick of butter, a little milk, salt and pep­per
to taste, breadcrumbs, 2 hard-boiled
eggs.
Tear spinach leaves from stems. Wash
thoroughly and boil until done. Drain off
water and chop. Heat half of butter, fry
saltmeat and whole shallot then add 'ipin­ach.
Salt and pepper, and as spinach ab­sorbs
buttec add a little rich milk. Con­tinue
cooking and then add rest of butter.
If desired, olive oil may be used instead
of butter. Place in deep dish, sprinkle with
coarse buttered crumbs and top with quar­tered
eggs.
I
POMME DE TERRE SOUFFLE
(Puffed Potatoes)
These puffed potatoes look easy to cook
but it's only after several trials that one
gets the nack 0f succeeding. So don't be
discouraged if your first attempts are fail­ures.
First of all the potatoes should be of a
rather starchy kind. Pare and cut into very
thin slices, as for chips. Immerse in ice
water several minutes and then wipe dry.
Have two pots of cooking fat. One with
fat slightly heated to cook slowly about a
dozen or more pieces. When nearly done
or soft remove and let cool. In other pot
fat should be very hot. The half-cooked
potatoes are placed in a wire frying basket
and then immersed in boiling fat. They
will puff up in a little while. They should
be salted and served immediately.
IRISH POTATO CROQUETTES
6 large potatoes, 1 ,·tick of butter, 3 eggs,
salt and pepper to taste.
Boil potatoes in :acket, cool, peel and mash.
Add butter, salt and pepper. Beat eggs
(leaving one white out) and blend well
with potatoes. Form oblong rolls and
pass each one in flour and then in slightly
beaten egg white. l'ry a few at a time in
deep hot fat. Serve immediately with
meat or fish in sauce.
BAKED BRUSSEL SPROUTS
AU GRATIN
1 qt. of Brmsel Sprouts, 6 green onions or
shallots, 1 tablespoon flour, 2 tablespoons
butter, 1 sliver of fat salt meat, 1 table­spoon
minced garlic and parsley, sprig of
thyme, salt and pepper to taste, 1 glass
hot stock· or water, grated cheese, crumbs.
Parboil sprouts. Place in baking dish. Fry
onion in butter and flour, add all other
seasonings then hot stock. Let come to a
complete boil. Pour over sprouts and
sprinkle with cheese and bread crumbs.
Bake in a slow oven until brown. Serve
with more grated cheese on the side.
CHEESED BROCCOLI IN
DRAWN BUTTER
Care .must be taken to prepare broccoli by
removing tough · covering from the stems.
Cut the head off the stem about one inch
from top. Remove leaves but retain tender
ones and boil with stems. Just before they
are done put in heads and boil for 10 min­utes
or more. Drain and add drawn butter,
salt and pepper and grated cheese (Gruyere
or Parmesian). If one cares for the Italian
touch, insert several pieces of garlic and a
little olive oil while boiling.
FRIED OR BROILED CREOLE
TOMATOES I
4 to 6 medium Creole tomatoes, 1 table­spoon
or more butter or good oil, salt and
pepper to taste, bread crumbs.
Cut off each end of tomato and if not too
large, cut across in half, otherwise in three.
·Have the oil hot and place slices in to
fry quickly, watch carefully that they do
not scorch. Turn over and fry on other
side. Creole tomatoes are more firm, hav­ing
less seed and more pulp. Remove to
platter and sprinkle bread crumbs that
have been sauted in grease left from tom­atoes
with a little minced parsley. If
broiled, place in oil in a shallow pan under
flame.
SOME INTERESTING FACTS
Clem Dazet, bartender for many years, shows visitors the "Vol­stead
Museum" that was padlocked in 1918. Inside the bar on
an enclosed shelf are bottles of imported Gin, Benedictine, Pru­nelle,
Jung, Peychaud, and 45-year-or-more-old Angostura bit­ters,
Maraschino and Curacao.
If William H. Maylie could have cashed in his restaurant's
licenses, he could have lived well on the proceeds. He once said,
as he proudly displayed what he called "the largest collection of
restaurant and bar licenses in the United States," "these are
fifty thousand dollars worth of city licenses and that doesn't in­clude
internal revenue."
If one has time to linger after partaking of a meal at Maylie's,
it is the pleasure of the proprietor to have you look over the
three large registers.
One finds signatures, remarks and compliments of many nota­bles
such as: Gifford Pinchot, Irwin Cobb, Maclyn Arbuckle,
Otis Skinner, Will Rogers, Raymond Hitchcock, Robert Mackey,
Freddie Walsh, Richard Mansfield, John Drew, Jim Corbett,
Amelia Bingham, actress, Ruth Law, aviatrix, and the French
aviator "Paulin"-(first World War).
Very small children are seldom brought to the restaurant, but
when this happens Mr. May lie has a high chair brought to make
the "tot" more comfortable. This chair was the Maylie brothers'
high baby chair and has first place among the collection of old
things.
-25-
!
Omelettes
DES OEUFS AU DIABLEf.'
( Deviled Eg.gs)
!h doz. bard boiled eggs (halved), 1 level
tablespoon each of butter and lard, !h
large can of ltalienne and very red
tomatoes, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 kitchen
spoon minced green onions, 1 tablespoon
minced garlic t,lnd parsley, leaves of a sprig
of thyme, 1 !h cttfs bot water, a piece of
bot pepper, salt a11d pepper to taste.
Heat butter and l~rd and fry egg halves
on both sides, being careful to keep yel­lows
in place. Remove from skillet, in this
same grease, brown flour then onion and
tomatoes. Let crok thoroughly, then add
stock or hot water and rest of seasonings.
Simmer a little and then replace egg halves
with yellows up. Simmer until gravt has
thickened and serve with buttered toast
and a green salad.
OMELETTE SOUFFLE AUX HUITRES
(Puffy Oyster Omelette)
2 doz. tlery small oysters, 6 eggs, 6 slices
bacon, 6 tablespoons bot water, salt and
pepper to taste, minced parsley, cayenne,
watercress.
Fry bacon and remove to dish. In bacon
fat, fry blanched oysters slightly. Beat egg
yolks until thick and add parsley, salt and
pepper, sprinkle of cayenne and hot water.
Mix well. Fold in lightly the stiffly beaten
whites until thoroughly blended. Pour
egg mixture over hot bacon fat and oysters;
spread evenly. Cook over a slow fire, mov­ing
pan occasionally so as to distribute
the heat evenly. When a delicate brown
underneath, put in a moderate oven (350
degrees F.) and bake until top is firm.
Fold and serve on a hot platter. Garnish
with bacon and watercress.
CRAYFISH OMELETTE A LA .
TOMATE~'
3 or 4 dozen cayenned boi~d cray/irh, 1
kitchen spoon minced shallots, !h kitchen
spoon butter, 2 large seeded Creole toma­toes,
1 tablespoon each of parsley and
green sweet pepper, salt and pepper to
taste.
Shell crayfish and remove any sand-string.
Saute them in butter, then brown shallots,
green pepper and tomatoes. Salt and pep­per.
Let all fry well. Salt and pepper eggs
before bating well, turn into skillet, stirring
back and forth and away from the edges.
Turn oc{:asionally where soft and turn
into platter in an oval shape. Garnish
with sauted spinach and hard boiled eggs
if desired.
SPANISH OMELETTE
6 to 8 eggs, 2 large fresh tomatoes or 1
cup of canned tomatoes, 1 sweet green
pepper, 1 kitche7l spoon green onions, 2
or 3 tablespoons Clf rich milk, 1 tablespoon
butter.
Melt butter without browning, insert thinly
sliced onions, then ringed green pepper
and skinned and seeded tomatoes. Fry well
and then add well beaten eggs and milk.
Cook carefully stirring back and forth and
away from edges in oval form. Turn over
into platter and serve immediately.
PLAIN OMELETTE SOUFFLE AU RUM
6 eggs, salt, 1 tablespoon butter, powdered
sugar, !h cup of Rum.
Beat eggs until fluffy. Pour into hot butter
and stir with a tork back and forth. Turn
into a thick china platter. Sprinkle well
with powdered su~ar, drench with rum and
set afire. Serve hot. When afire, turn out
all lights and see the pretty blue light the
burning rum gives.
Salads and Dressings
Maylie's always serves salads at every meal,
oae for lunch and two for dinner. Broadly
speaking salads are of two varieties, light
and heavy. The light, of various salad
plants--lettuce, celery, romaine, chicory, ,
watercress, endive, etc.-are served as a
rule, with a light French dressing and are
a refreshing accompaniment to other
courses in a hearty meal. These may be
thoroughly tossed in a light way and served
immediately, especially if vinegar is u;;ed
in the dressing. The French usually like a
dash of sugar added to their greens. The
heavier usually have as a base the potato
· but practically all vegetables may be used
-cauliflower, carrots, celery (uncooked),
beans, asparagus. beets, hard-boiled eggs,
heart of artichok~s, etc. These have to
marinate at least ~1 hour so as to have
dressing penetrate for good taste. Shrimp,
chicken, potato, and the like must mari­nate
several hours and before serving
should be tossed ~gain.
APPLE SALAD
An apple a day keeps the doctor away, so
we might call this one a "Health Salad."
-26-
'
i
'
l
:
I
\
i
3 large apples, the heart of celery and a
few white brat~ches with white leaves, 1 ~
tablespoons of raisins, juice of ~ lemon,
2 tablespoons chopped pecans, avocado,
mayonnaise and green salad leaves, water­cress
preferred.
Wash apples, pare and core, cut in small
pieces. Do likewise with raisins, celery
branches, and heart. Add lemon and mix
well. If too juicy, remove and blend with
mayonnaise. If put into a mold for in­dividual
service, garnish each with crisp
greens, sprinkle with pecans and serve cold.
SPRING SALAD of Curly Shrimp,
Romaine and Watercress•:•
2 lbs. river shrimp, 2 heads romaine and
enough watercress for decoration as well
as to eat, 2 Creole tomatoes, 1 green pep­per,
2 new white onions or a few shallots,
3 hard-boiled eggs, French dressing, 1
small dill pickle, 3 olives, 2 tablespoons
minced heart of celery, salt and pepper to
taste, a,nd paprika.
Boil shrimp, remove shells and sand vein.
Salt and pepper and saturate well with
some French dressing. Mash ·egg yellows
and make a smooth paste with more dress­ing.
Mince olives, ~ pickle, the white of
one egg and celery. Use the tender leaves
of romaine and place alternately with the
cress on a deep platter (around the edge).
Cut tomatoes in slices (same being skinned
and seeded) and place in center of platter
with cut green pepper and onions. Spread
shrimp and pour egg paste over this. Dec­orate
with minced olives, pickles, other
egg whites rings and celery. Strip the other
half of pickle and place here and there.
Garnish with watercress and paprika, and
chill before serving.
SHRIMP REMOULADE SALAD
2 lbs. shrimp (boiled, peeled and sand re­moved),
1 tablespoon vinegar, 1 tablespoon
of lemon, 6 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tea­spoons
Creole mustard, 3 tablespoons tom­ato
ketchup, 3 green onions (shallots), with
part of green tops, minced heart of celery
with 4 or 5 branches and leaves, salt and
pepper to taste.
Mix shrimp in bowl, thoroughly, with the
dressing and set in refrigerator to marinate
for about 2 or 3 hours. When about to
serve, mix again and place portions on
sliced tomato. Garnish with lettuce or'
watercress and celery leaves. ·
POTATO SALAD
3 or 4 large .mealy potatoes, 2 hard-boiled
eggs, 1 onion or equivalent of shallots,
heart of celery and some of the white
leaves, 3 tablespoons · vinegar or lemon to
9 of olive oil, 1 teaspoon mustard, 1 small
dill pickle, 4 olives, salt and pepper to
taste, minced parsley.
Boil potatoes in the jacket and when cool
peel and slice. Place a layer of minced
shallots, . celery, pickle, olives, salt and
pepper. Repeat with more potatoes and
seasonings until all is used up. Cut hard
boiled eggs and place on top. Mix vinegar,
oil and mustard well and pour over this.
Sprinkle with parsley. Place in refrigerator
to marinate and before serving mix well
and dress with mayonnaise and lettuce
leaves.
CHICKEN SALAD in Avocado Cups .
2 cups of minced boiled chicken, 3 medium
avocadoes, and then use same other in­gredients
as in potato salad with the ex­ception
of adding a teaspoon of minced
caperS and mix with chicken accordingly.
Stuff balled avocadoes, garnishing with
chopped ·white of eggs, olives, and heart of
celery. Don't forget the stock from boiled
chicken makes an excellent consomme or
base of any desirable soup.
CREOLE SALAD BOWL
2 heads of Creole lettuce or romaine, 1
Bermuda onion sliced, 4 tomatoes (Creole),
skinned and seeded, 1 cucumber, peeled,
scored and sliced very thin, 1 doz. rad­ishes,
peeled, leaving on a little of the red
skin, and 1 small sweet pepper cut in
ri.ngs, tender water cress, (the bowl should
be rubbed with garlic).
Make a French dressing of 1 tablespoon
each of vinegar and lemon and four to
six tablespoons olive oil (if a rich salad
is desired, otherwise use vegetable oil) salt
and pepper to taste. Place all ingredients,
except green: salads, in Salad Bowl. Pour
French dressing over all and toss well. Then
place lettuce, romaine, and watercress
around sides and on top. Place in re­frigerator
to marinate a while and when
ready to serve mix again so that greens
will absorb some of the dressing but will
still retain their crispiness.
-27-
AVOCADO MAYONNAISE
Three-fourtks cup sieved alligator pear, 2
tablespoons evaporated milk, 1 tablespoon
lemon juice, 1 teaspoon prepared mustard,
paprika, salt and tabasco sauce to taste.
Add lemon juice to milk. Beat well and
add with seasonings to the sieved fruit. This
dressing keeps 3 or 4 days in refrigerator,
and is nice with salads, greens, fruit, tom­atoes
and seafoods. If put into a ·bowl
rubbed with garlic one gets ali unusually
tasty dressing.
In one dining room will be found an antique mahogany buffet
with hand carved lion heads and lacy mouldings. This piece
of furniture has been acquired within the last quarter of a cen­tury,
but seems to have a prominent place among the many old
and cherished things in this 125-year-old building. One notices
particularly two unique pitchers, one for beer and the other for
ice water. The former of majolica on which one side has a view
of the famous French Opera House and on the other that of the
Old Absinthe House as it was originally. Below each view is
written, "From the home of Comus, Proteus, and Momus.'' The
other pitcher is odd because it is an ice water pitcher, though
the ice never touches the water, due to the fact that there is
a bladder shaped compartment -in which the ice is placed. To
make sure that these articles are not stolen, Mr. Maylie has them
secured under lock and key, in fact chained to the buffet.
The only arm chair left from the billiard room is still to be
see.n in the kitchen. It being rather comfortable, and still
sturdy, is a good resting place for the cook in leisure time be­tween
meals.
-28-
Sweet Enttemets and Desserts
CANDIED SWEET POTATOES
0 dozen 'yam potatoes, 0 ftick butter, 1
cup of corn syrup, cinnamon or 1 cup of
brown sugar.
Wash potatoes well to remove all earth that
may cling to same. Put into a pot of water
and parboil. Remove from pot and let
cool enough to handle. If large, cut into
three slices, otherwise in half. (Before that,
peel off skin and any dark spots). Place
in baking dish and pour corn syrup over
same. Sprinkle cinnamon a11d dot with
·butter. Bake in moderate oven until pota­toes
are partly brown and candied. Brown
sugar may be used instead of corn syrup.
PLAINTAIN AU CARAMEL
3 or 4 plantains, 1 cup of sugar, a little
water. ·
Plantains are somewhat like a banana, hut
are never eaten raw as their fiber is so
much coarser. It can be cooked in any way
that the banana is. Mme. Esparhe prepared
hers this way.
Peel,J:lnd cut in half, then slice lengthwise.
Fry on both sides until well done but not
scorched. As they brown, place in a dish
and keep warm. In the remaining grease
brown the sugar to make a caramel, and
pour in · a little water. Let carameled sugar
dissolve well and return fruit, being care­ful
not to break it. Let all simmer till
fruit is well saturated. Serve semi-warm
as a dessert or sweet entremet.
SWEET POTATO-PEACH COMPOTE*
6 medium size yams, 1 lb. dried peaches, 1
can corn syrup, 0 stick of butter, 0
teaspoon cinnamon.
Boil yams and remove skins while warm.
Soak and skin peaches, cook in a little
water and Yz syrup until nearly done.
Cut yams in half, place in baking dish.
Place cooked peaches on yams. Dot with
butter, pour in rest of syrup and
peach gravy. Sprinkle with cinnamon.
Bake until all becomes slightly browned
and well candied. Serve warm with
whipped cream.
PUDDING .de GIRAUMONT
(Cas haw or Pumpkin)
1 small cashaw, 3 to 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar,
20 teaspoons vanilla, 1 pint milk,
V4 lb. butter, cinnamon.
If cashaw is big, cut in half ar:d use one
part. Cut it into smaller pieces and bake
so as to make meat tender enough to
spoon out. Beat sugar and eggs together
and add to it warm milk and vanilla. Mix
well with mashed cashaw. Stir in cinna­mon
and melted butter. Bake in a mod­erate
oven until top and edges begin to
brown. This can also be served as a dessert
or sweet entremet.
STRAWBERRY FLOATING ISLAND·':'
1 qt. f1·esh ripe strawberries, · i pt. or more
milk, 1 cup sttga1·, 3 or 4 eggs (according
to size), pinch of salt, and powde1·ed JUgar.
Wash .and mash strawberries. Cover with
half the granulated sugar. Beat egg yolks
with rest of sugar and a pinch of salt. Add
scalded milk gradually. Return to fire and
cook slowly, stirring constantly. \V'hen mix­ture
coats spoon well, set aside to cool.
When cold, add cold strawberry pulp and
put into a deep dish. Place islands of mer­ingue
made of the egg whites and pow­dered
sugar beaten to a stiff froth. Drop
a little strawberry jam or slices of fresh
strawberries in middle of each island and
serve cold.
NOTE:
Meringue, dropped in scalding milk . and
lifted out immediately, is much improved
and very delicious.
FRESH STEWED PEACHES and
FRENCH CREAM':'
1 doz. or more large fresh peaches, 2 cups
of granulated sugar, V4 teaspoon cinnamon.
Pare and cut peaches, rinse and stew in
about one-quarter cup of water if not too
juicy. When partly done, add sugar and
cinnamon. Let simmer until well cooked,
being careful not tO"' scorch.
FRENCH CREAM
1 pt. fresh rich milk, 3 or 4 eggs, 1 cup
sugar, 10 teaspoon vanilla.
Make a custard cream with the milk, egg
yolks, some of the sugar and vanilla. Place
peaches iA. deep dish and pour cream over
this. Beat egg whites with rest of sugar
to a stiff froth and let brown slightly. Cool
before serving.
-29-
BUTTERSCOTCH AND ALMOND
SAUCE*
~ cup butter, two-thirds cup brown sugar
(lightly packed), 1 egg yolk, 3 tablespoons
milk, 1 egg white, 1 teaspoon of almond
essence (if desired substitute other essence).
Cream butter thoroughly, add sugar grad­ually,
and beat until light and fluffy. Add
the almond and egg yolk and then milk
gradually, beating it in thoroughly. Fold
in beaten egg white. Minced nut meats may
be added if desired.
APPLE SOUFFLE':'
6 or 8 large apples, 1 cup sugar, ~ tea­spoon
cinnamon, 1 tablespoon butter.
Pare and cut and wash apples. Place in
saucepan that contains one quarter cup
of hot water. Stew a few minutes then
add one cup of sugar, (a little more if
apples are tart), cinnamon and butter.
Cook until tender but not. too wet. Place
in baking dish, and pour over with cus­tard
cream, the next recipe.
CUSTARD CREAM
1 pint milk, 3 or 4 eggs, 2 spoon:s sugar
for each egg, 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Make a thin cooked vanilla custard cream,
using only yellows of eggs as whites are
used for meringue. Pour over apples and
·top with meringue. Place in oven and let
bake until custard becomes semi-set. May
be served warm or told.
WHISKIED BAKED APPLE
AMBROSIA*
1 doz. cooking apples, 1 ~ cups shredded
cocoanut, 3 cups of boiling water, 3 doz.
marshmallows, 2 or 3 teaspoons whisky,
good pinch of salt, chopped fat pecans.
Maraschino cherries and syrup for color­ing,
cinnamon.
Heat marshmallows in salted hot water
until melted and free of lumps. Core and
peel apples and place in baking dish, pour
in above hot sauce. Sprinkle dash of cin­namon
on each apple. Bake in moderate
oven until apples are done. Remove from
oven and while hot stir whisky in sauce.
Let cool, then cover apples with cocoanut
that has been colored with cherry juice.
Sprinkle with fat pecan meats and top with
a cherry.
LIQUORED CRACKLIN BREAD*
(La Pate)
3 cups fine yellow cornmeal, 1 teaspoon
salt, 1 ~ cups broken cracklins, 1 cup sweet
milk, 2 tablespoons absinthe, 3 teaspoons
baking powder, 1 bay leaf, 2 cups boiling
water, 1 tablespoon lard.
Sift cornmeal and salt, scald with boil­ing
water, stirring to prevent lumps. Add
shortening, milk and baking powder. Beat
well then insert cracklins, bay leaf and
lastlv absinthe. Cook on top of stove,
being very careful to stir to avoid scorch­ing.
When cornmeal is done and thick, pour
on a clean white cloth which is already
spread on a table. This dough should run
just enough to spread about one inch or
more thick. Let cool well so as to set, then
cut into narrow short pieces, and fry in
hot fat, browning both sides. Sprinkle
powdered sugar over each piece and serve
warm.
STRAWBERRY STRUDEL*
3 cups of flour, 1 teaspoonful baking
flour, 1 ~ tel/Spoons salt, ~ cup melted
butter, 2 beaten eggs, 1 cup of evaporated
milk, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, ~ cup
fresh strawberry jelly, 2 cups of chopped
ripe apples, ~ cup of nut meats, ~ cup
sugar, 2 teaspoons cinnamon and seperately
hot strawberry sauce.
Sift the flour with the baking powder
and salt. Combine the beaten eggs with
melted butter and lemon juice. Add the
liquid ingredients to the sifted dry in­gredients
and mix lightly to .a smooth
dough. Divide the dough into two por­tions
and roll out on a floured surface.
Spread the dough with the strawberry
jelly, then the chopped apples and nut
meats. Sprinkle over with cinnamon and
sugar and roll each section like a jelly
roll and cut into two inch slices. Place
flat in a baking tin and bake 30 minutes
in a hot oven. Serve with warm fresh
strawberry sauce.
NOTE:
This is not considered a Creole dish but
·baving received a prize, it is included.
WHISKIED PRUNE PIE*
1 lb. dried extra large prunes, ~ lemon,
1 cup or more of sugar, 2 to 4 tablespoons
whisky (according to strength), pecans if
desired, a puff paste is preferable for this
pie but an ordinary flaky one will do.
-30---
Cook prunes and lemon. Prunes should
be soaked over night for several hours.
When nearly done, add sugar and let
come to a syrupy consistency. Cool, pit,
and add whisky. Add chopped pecans if
desired. Fill pie or small pastry shells and
place strips of dough crosswise. Dot with
a little butter and bake in a moderate oven.
Let cool before sprinkling with powdered
sugar.
I
LEONIE'S BEIGNETS SOUFFLE
1 cup prepared flour, 1 cup milk, 4 eggs,
rind of -!6 lemon, 1 tablespoon sugar, 2
teaspoons butter, 1 tablesj}{)on each of
whiskey and anisette, 1-!6. lbs. shortening
for frying, powdered sugar.
Boil milk with butter, sugar and lemon
rind. Sift flour three times. While milk is
boiling slowly pour flour gradually into
same stirring all the time until it forms
a ball. Let cool slightly and add each egg,
one at the time, to dough. Use hands and
blend thoroughly each time an egg is
added. Now add liquors and beat some more.
In a deep skillet or saucepan, heat sh.orten­ing
to nearly boiling point and drop by
3 or 4 tablespoons of dough. Cook slowly.
Stir or turn beignets occasionally. Each
one should be turned again and again
so that they will continue swelling as
they cook. Powdered sugar should be
well sprinkled over them. When properly
done these. beignets should be almost hol­low,
that is why they take so long to cook
and are called souffle.
The success of this delicacy depends as
much and more on the cooking as it does
the preparation. Anyone who succeeds in
the making of Mrs. Leonie Canepa's
Beignets Souffle can well pat themselves
on the back. Hers are always "Cordon
Bleu."
PECANNED SOFT GINGERBREAD
OR "GATEAU MELASSE"
1 cup butter, .3 cups flour, 1 cup sugar,
1 cup black molasses, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon
ginger, -!6 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon
soda melted in 1 cup boiling water, 1 cup
minced pecans.
Cream butter and sugar. Add yolks of eggs
and spices, then melted soda .to molasses,
combine mixtures. Add flour and stiffly
beaten egg white. One cup of minced pe­cans
may be added as it richens the cake.
Bake in a slow oven. May be baked in
layer or whole. Use marshmallows and
lemon icing for filling and top.
PUDDING aux ETAGES (Layers),.
Stale sponge cake (in slices), tart jelly, .3
eggs, .3 cups milk, 6 tablespoons sugar, 2
teaspoons vanilla, 6 apples stewed almost
to a pulp, slightly sweetened and cinnamon
flavored. (Peaches or apricots may be sub­stituted
for apples.)
Make a French custard with the yellows of
eggs, milk, sugar, and vanilla. Place part
of sliced cake in bottom of pudding
dish an~ spread over with tart jelly,
cover wtth rest of cake. Put cooked fruit
over all and pour in slowly cooked cream.
Bake in oven until custard is firm. Beat
egg whites and powdered sugar to make
a firm meringue. Spread over pudding
covering well. Return to oven to . brown
slightly. May be served cold or warm.
FRESH FRUIT SALAD IN WHITE
WINE
1 fresh pineapple, .3 navel oranges, 2 juicy
apples, 3 manderines, 1 grapefruit, .3
peaches, 2 pears, 1 doz. or more maras­chino
cherries.
Pare and core all fruits and slice thin.
Sprinkle well with sugar and add cherries
and maraschino liquor. Let stand in re­frigerator
a couple of hours so that pine­apple
and apple will soften in the juices
of the other fruits. Before serving, pour
in a generous amount of good sherry or
madeira wine. Serve with a sponge cake.
CARAMEL CUSTARD A LA VANILLE
(Des Oeufs au Lait au Caramel)
1 qt. of fresh rich cow milk, 7 to 9 eggs,
according to size, ~ teaspoon salt, 1
measuring cup of sugar for custard plus
enough sugar to brown and coat bottom
and half the side of a baking dish, 2 or
more teaspoons of vannilla essence.
Scald milk with salt. Beat sugar and eggs
thoroughly, and pour a little of the hot
milk on the eggs and sugar and then add
gradually this last to rest of hot milk. Re­turn
to fire . a while to slightly thicken,
then strain into baking dish which has
already been coated with the carameled
sugar. Stir in vanilla. Cook in oven after
placing dish in a pan of water. This cus­tard
is very rich due to the amount of
eggs, but as it contains no thickener, other­wise,
is very light and digestible. Topped
with pineapple marmalade and chopped
pecans it becomes a very festive dessert.
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FRESH PINEAPPLE and WINE CAKEs=:=
1 small ripe pineapple, ~ cup sugar, ·1
medium glass of white wine, cherries,
minced nuts, 6 large sponge muffins or
bakery wine cakes.
Pare pineapple and cut lengthwise in four.
Cut out core and slice each quarter into
slices about 1A inch thick. Place in deep
bowl, alternately with sugar. Pour wine
over all and let stand in refrigerator
over nite so that fruit will soften and juice
will be somewhat extracted. When r-eady
to serve, pour juice over sponge cakes and
heap with pineapples, topping with cherries
and minced nuts. If bakery cakes are used,
use only part of juice as they have already
been saturated.
MME. ESPARBE'S RIS AU LAIT
(Milk Rice)
1 cup rice, 1 qt. rich milk, ~ vanilla bean,
1 bay lea/, 1 cup sugar, salt.
Wash rice thoroughly and parboil in a
little water and salt. Add hot milk, bay
leaf, and vanilla bean. Let simmer until
rice has swelled. Add sugar and cook till
rice is very soft and the milk is thick.
This rice should be very wet in fact there
should be enough milk in it so that it will
pour when put into dish. It will thicken
as it cools. If desired a little caramel may
be poured on top.
NOTE:
If vanilla bean is not to be had, 2 or 3
teaspoons of the essence can be substituted.
CREPE SUZETTE
6 eggs, 1 cup of sweet cream, ~ cup of
milk, 1 cup of flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 2
tablespoons orange flower water, 2 table­spoons
sugar.
Beat the eggs, add sugar then liquid and
gradually the flour and salt to form a thin
paste. Have frying pan well greased
with butter. Use enough batter to cover
thinly the bottom of pan, frying one
crepe at a time and buttering pan each
time. To do this easily, take a dean
doth and tie on to a wooden spoon
or stick. Dip into a bowl of melted
butter and swab pan lightly. Cook each
crepe on both sides being careful not to
tear in turning. They should be exceedingly
thin. An expert can reverse the crepe by
flipping it up and turning at the same
time. Serve with the following sauce:
Crush 1 doz. lumps of sugar or equivalent
powdered sugar in the juice of half an
orange and half a lemon. Add this to one-third
of a cup of butter that is melted
in a chafing-dish platter. Heat all and
place folded crepes in same, and sprinkle
with powdered sugar. Add brandy, or rum,
cointreau, and absinthe, a little - of each
flavors it well. Saturate crepes well and
raise end of dish so that liquor will catch
afire. Serve hot.
BELLES CALLAS! TOUT CHAUD!
2 cups of flour, 2 eggs, 4 tablespoons sugar,
4 to 5 teaspoons baking powder, about 10
cups of cooked rice (cold or leftover), milk
and vanilla to taste, if this flavor is desired.
Beat the. whole eggs well, add sugar; flour;
baking powder. Blend well, then add
essence and milk, enough to make a thin
batter, then last add rice. See that the
rice is well distributed. Fry in deep short­ening
and serve hot. Sprinkle with pow ..
dered sugar just before serving. These
cakes taste best when eaten with Louisiana
cane syrup.
PLANTATION COOKIES
~ cup each of brown and white sugar, 1
egg, ~ cup butter, 1Vz cup sifted flour,
~ teaspoon soda, Y4 teaspoon salt, 2 table­spoons
hot water,' ~ teaspoon vanilla, 1
7 -oz. bar of semi-sweet chocolate, ~1: cup
pecan meats chopped.
Cream butter or shortening, add sugars
and beaten egg. Mix salt in flour and melt
soda in the hot water. Mix both these al­ternately
with the first mixture. Add
chopped nuts and very small squares of
chocolate. Flavor with vanilla and drop
by teaspoons on a greased cookie sheet.
Bake 10 or 12 minutes in 375 degrees F.
About 50 cookies.
LOUISIANA SWEET POTATO
and PECAN PIE
For Pastry:
Sift 1 cup flour with 1A teaspoon salt. Cut
in 4 tablespoons of good butter. Add about
3 tablespoons of cold water or enough to
hold ingredients together. Roll and line
· pie plate.
Filling:
Combine 1 Yz cups mashed yams, Y2 cup
brown sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 tea­spoon
ginger, ~ teaspoon salt, 1 Yz cups
scalded milk, 2 well beaten eggs. Cool and
fill unbaked pie shell. Bake in a moderate
oven (350 degrees F.) until nearly set,
about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with mixture
of ~ cup butter, Y2 cup brown sugar and
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1 cup pecan meats. Continue baking until
custard is done, about three-quarters of
an hour in all. Serve wi.th fresh whipped
cream.
MME. ESPARBE'S HOT BISCUITS
One of Mme. Esparbe's biscuits was indeed
a meal in itself. She always made them
large, that is, high and wide. Tis true she
insisted on using fresh dairy butter and
ordered it from her milkman a day or
two before she intended baking for her
eleven o'clock "dejeuner." The following is
a small proportion of what she used but
enough for a small family:
4 cups of flour, 1 cup of fresh dairy but­ter,
1 cup milk, 8 heaping teaspoons baking
powder, 1 teaspoon salt.
Mix butter in sifted flour, using fingers.
Add milk, ·salt, and baking powder. Mix
well and roll out about Y2 inch thick or
thinner if flat biscuits are desired. Bake
in greased pans in a little more 'than a
moderate oven. These biscuits do not re­quire
buttering as they are rich enough
already but if the butter is very fresh, a
little more salt may be added.
TANTE OPHELIA'S PLANTATION
CORN BREAD
-2 cups of fine yellow cornmeal, 1 cup
of wheat flour, 3 eggs, 2 teaspoons baking
powder, 0 teaspoon salt, 2 cups milk, 1
tablespoon sugar, 1 kitchen spoon lard.
Mix cornmeal, flour and salt and stir in
milk, then the beaten egg yolks, sugar,
and fold in whites. If possible, use a black
stove pan in which lard has been placed.
The pan should be very hot before pour­ing
in mixture. Bake until well done.
ONE-TWO-THREE-FOUR
CAKE MUFFINS
One cup of butter, Two cups sugar, Three
cups flour, Four eggs, 1 cup milk, 4 tea­spoons
baking powder, three-quarters of a
teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon vanilla.
Add sugar gradually to creamed butter,
beating thoroughly. Add the beaten egg
yolk. Sift the dry ingredients together and
add alternately with milk to first mixture.
Fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Drop
spoonfuls into muffin cups and bake in a
moderate oven. This amount makes two
large layers and may be filled with tart
jelly, or any marshmallow filling. Easy to
make and is deliciously rich.
FROZEN CREAM CHEESE*
4 dairy cream cheeses, 1 pt. sweet milk,
3 eggs, 2 cups sugar, 2 tablespoons sugar
for egg whites.
Cream yellows of eggs with sugar, add
milk, cream cheese. Whip 2 tablespoons
sugar with egg whites to a stiff froth.
Mix all thoroughly and freeze.
VANILLA ICE CREAM
WITH CRUSHED FRUIT
1 qt. of fresh milk, 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1
can evaporated, unsweetened milk, 3 tea­spoons
vanilla, 1 small can crushed pine­apple,
1 cup crushed peaches, 0 cup of
minced maraschino cherries and liquid.
Scald milk, add a pinch pf salt. Beat yel­low
of eggs with sugar and pour in the
scalded milk a little at a time. Return to
fire and let cook till slightly thickened
or when it coats spoon. Strain and let
cool before adding evaporated milk, van­illa,
and crushed fruits. Beat egg whites
to a stiff froth, and add to cream after
same has been put into freezer, if this
last is used, otherwise, mix before filling
refrigerator cups.
PURPLE PLUM SHERBERT
6 cups of plum pulp and juice, 2 cups of
sugar, (or more according to acidity of
fruit), juice of 0 lemon, water added to
make desired amount, whites of 3 eggs
beaten stiff.
Steam fruit with sugar and lemon. Strain
through . seive and let stand in their juice
until cold. Turn into freezer and add stiffly
beaten whites. Freeze hard, and serve with
lady finger or sponge cake.
STUFFED DATES GLACE
Pit a .pound of dates, stuff with meat of
Y2 of whole pecan and marshmallow. Cook
a syrup of granulated sugar and water
and when same is about to thread, place
dates in same. Remove dates seperately to
a buttered dish and let cool. Wrap each
in wax paper and they will keep indefin­itely.
LA COLLE (Candy)
"La Colle" is a delicious kind of molasses
praline that is placed in white or wax
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paper cases. A favorite among the Creole,
young and old.
1 lb. of brown sugar, }1 pt. black molasses,
1 cup of fat pecan meats, butter about
size of a . pecan.
Boil the sugar and molasses to less than
Y2 the quantity. To this dark syrup, add
butter and one cup of pecan meats. When
it has become so boiled that it threads,
pour into small paper cases.
NOTE:
The candy recipes are not included in our
table d'hote menus, but because of their
old fashionedness and being typical of the
South, we hand them in for "lagniappe."
NEW ORLEANS PRALINES
2 cups brown sugar, 1 cup light molasses,
2 cups cream, 4 tablespoons butter, 1 tea­spoon
vanilla, 1 qt. pecan meats.
Boil sugar, molasses, cream, and butter,
stirring all the time until a soft ball is
formed when a drop is placed in cold
water. Add vanilla, pour in nuts and stir
until it begins to sugar. Drop from tip of
spoon in small piles on butter pans.
NEVER-FAIL FROSTINGS
N0.1
4 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon cream,
4 tablespoons cocoa, 2 cups of 4X con­fection
sugar, ~ cup of minced nuts.
Melt the butter in the mixing bowl. Mix
sugar and cocoa and add gradually to the
butter. Add cream as needed. Spread on
cakes and sprinkle with nuts.
NO.2
Beat white of egg and add confectioner's
sugar gradually, dropping a little lemon
juice once in a while until icing is heavy
enough to spread.
COFFEE
Louisianians usually use Chicory to give
strength and body to their coffee. For
those who do not care for the pronounced
taste of chicory, a measure of any good
Southern coffee and chicory mixed with
an equal measure of plain coffee of the
same brand will give a very good and
tasty beverage. In Cafe-au-lait (coffee and
milk) the milk is boiled before adding to
black coffee. The richer the milk the bet­ter
the Cafe-au-lait.
DRIPPED COFFEE
~offee must be of the best quality and
tt must be fresh. Always bear in mind
the good Creole and southern cook does
not boil coffee. It must drip in a covered
strainer or coffee-pot--slowly until all the
flavor is extracted. · The water should be
~ept at the b?iling point and poured
tn small quanttty upon the grounds in
order to get the proper strength and aroma.
Wet the grounds first, then let set a few
minutes, before adding second pouring.
Then add more water only after grounds
have ceased to bubble. Keep pouring at
intervals, but be sure to keep the cover
on and spout of urn stopped to prevent
flavor from escaping. Allow 1 cup of any
good southern coffee with or without chic­ory
to make three or four cups of coffee.
CAFE ROYALE
To a cup of black coffee allow 2 lumps
of sugar but place them on the spoon, and
let cup hold same. Pour good cognac or
brandy (about 2 teaspoons) over sugar
and touch a lighted match to it.
CAFE BRULOT
Put a 2 inch piece of cinnamon stick
broken in half, Y2 dozen cloves, 8 or 10
lumps of sugar, a piece each of lemon
and orange peel, 3 jiggers of brandy or
cognac, in a warm silver bowl. Light and
let burn until sugar is dissolved, stirring
all the time Pour in about 4 half cups
of freshly dripped, strong, hot, black cof­fee,
stir with ladle until flame is quenched.
Serves about 4 or more.
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Alphabetical Index by Classification
Page
C o f f e e ------- ·-------------------------- ·----3 4
Cafe Brulot --------··----------------------------------- 34
Cafe Royale ------------------------------------------- 34
Coffee, Dripped ---------------------------------- 34
F o w l and M e a t s _________________ l4
Beef, Boiled, Mme. Esparbe's________________ 5
Beef Roast and Mint Jelly ________________________ 19
Beefsteak, Mme. Esparbes Broiled or
Filet Mignon aux Cepes ___________________ 15
Brains au Beurre Noir _________________________ 18
Chicken, Fricasse of, au Chou-Fleur ___ 16
Chicken, Fried Spring, a la Lula,
Southern Style ------------------------------------ 14
Chicken, Sauce Blanche au Capres _______ 16
Daube Glace ---------- -------------------------------- 14
Daube, Mme. Esparbe's Beef, and
Macaroni au Gratin ---------------------------- 15
Duck, Muscovy, with Oyster Dressing 14
Duck, Baked Mallard ---------------------------- 19
Duck, Wild, stewed with turnips________ 17
Goose, Roast with Oyster Dressing ___ 14
Jambalaya a la Creole __ ------------------------- 18
Lamb and Turnip, Bonne Managere ___ 18
Lamb Roast, Leg of, and Mint Jelly____ 19
Liver, Whole Suckling Calf, or
Smothered Calf Tongue -------------------- 17
Macaroni and Cheese ________ ____ ________________ 15
Poulet a la Creole ------------------------------------ 16
Quail, Braized ------------------------------------------ 19
Rabbit (Civet de Lapin) ------------------------ 19
Roux, Brown or White ------------------------ 5
Sauce, Brown Butter --------------------------------- 18
Sauce, Picquante ----------------------------------- 5
Spaghettini en Casserole a l'ltalienne ___ 15
Squab, Broiled on Toast ________________________ 19
Stew, Giblet, a la Campagne _______________ 16
Sweetbread, Mme. Esparbe's Fricassee,
or Ris De Veau aux Champi.lmons ___ 17
Tongue, Smothered Calf, or Whole
Suckling Calf Liver --------------------------- 17
Tripe a la Creole ----------------------------·------- 17
Turkey, Roasted Capon or, with .
Chestnut and Pecan Dressing ______ _____ 14
Veal Blanquette --------------------------------------- 14
Veal Grillade and Grits ------------------- --·-- 17
Veal Pocket, Stuffed, a la Maylie ______ _____ 18
Veal Round, Stuffed, a Ia Nouvelle
Orleans _____________________________ ·----------------- - 15
Veau, Fraise de, a la Carondelet ________ ____ 18
Venison, Stewed (Cuison de Chevreuil) 19
0 m e l e t t e s _________ _________________ _26
Oeufs, des. au Diable (Deviled Eggs) ____ 26
Omelette, Crayfish, a Ia Tomate ____________ 26
Omelette, Plain, Souffle au Rum ________ 26
Omelette, Souffle aux Huitres
(Puffy Oyster Omelette) -------------------- 26
Omelette, Spanish ------------------------------------ 26
S a l a d s and ·D r e s s i n g s _26
Apple Salad ------------------------------------- 26
Page
Chicken, in Avocado Cups -------------------- 27
Creole Salad Bowl -------------------------------- 27
Mayonnaise, Avocado ---------------------------- 28
Potato ____________________ c__________________________________ 27
Shrimp Remoulade ---------------------------------- 27
Spring Salad, Curly Shrimp, Romaine
and Watercress · ------------------------------------ 27
S e a f o o d s ------------------------------ 9
Bacalao, Mme. Esparbe'~ ---------------·---·---- 10
Bouillabaise, Creole -------------------------- ----- 9
Courtbouillon --------------------------------- __________ 9
Crab, Pontchartrain, and Creole Rice___ 10
Crabs, Soft Shell, Tante Therese's Fried 11
Crabs, Stuffed, Creole ----- ·---------------------- 10
Crayfish, Whiskied, Boiled ----· --·------------ 12
Mackerel, Spanish, a Ia Poydras __________ 10
Oyster, May lies, St. Jacques __ ________________ 11
Oyster, Vol-au-vent ___ -----------·-------·-------- 11
Oyster en Brochette .. . __ -·------·-···--- ----- 12
Oysters Rockefeller ______ ---------· -· ----------- 12
Pompano, · Broiled, with Drawn
Butter Sauce ----·---------------·------------------- 9
Rice, Creole Sty]e .. ________ ______ ____ ____________ 10
Sauce, Vinaigrette, Maylie's Redfish ___ 9
Sauce, Tartar ----- -------·------------· ·----------------- 11
Shellfish, Melba ___ _____ ___ __ __________ _______ ___ 12
Sole, or Caspurgot and Tartar Sauce____ 10
Truite, Baked Filet de, with Mush-rooms
and White Wine Gravy _____ __ 12
s 0 u p s ---------------------------------------- 6
Bisque, Crayfish ----------- --------------------------- 8
Croutons ----------------------------------------------------- 6
Egg, a la Paysanne ----------------------------·--- 6
Greens, Collard ____ .. ______ --- --------------------- 6
Gumbo, File, Crayfish ______ ______________________ 7
Gumbo, Shellfish ---------"- ------------------------- 7
Leek and Potato Puree ------------------------ 7
Onion ___ .... __ ____ ··- ····-----------·- ···· 6
Pea, Lentil or Split Pea Puree________________ 6
Turtle (Soup a la Tortue) ____________________ 7
Vegetable, Creole or Julienne ----------~----- 6
Sweet Entremets and Desserts __ .29
Apple Ambrosia, Whiskied, Baked _ ·---- 30
A~ple Souffle ____ _____ _ ______________________ 30
Beignets Souffle, Leonies ---------------------- 31
Belles Callas __________ . __ -------- ---------------~---- 32
Biscuits, Mme. Esparbes ------------------------ 33
Bread, Liquored Cracklin ··------c-------------- 30
Cake. Fresh Pineapple Wine ____________ 32
Candy --------------------------- ----------------------------- 3 3
Cookies, Plantation -------------------------------- 32
Cornbread, Tante Ophelia's Plantation 33
Cream Cheese, Frozen ---------------------------- 33
Cream, Custard ---------------------------------------- 30
Cream, French ---------------------------------------- 29 ·
Crepe Susette -------------------------------------------- 32
Custard, Caramel a la Vanille ---------------- 31·
Dates, Stuffed, Glace --------------------------- 33
Floating Island, Strawberry ---------------- 29
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Sweet Entremets and Desserts-
(Continued) ______ ___ ___________________ 29
Frostings, Never-Fail ---------------------------- _ 34
Gingerbread, Pecanned Soft, or
Gateau Melasse -----------------------------------· _ 31
Ice Cream, Vanilla with Crushed
Fruit ------------------------------------------------------ 3 3
La Colle (Candy) ------------------------------------ 33
Muffins, One-Two-Three-Four Cake _____ 33
Peaches, French Stewed and
French Cream ---------------------------------------- 29
Pie, Louisiana Sweet Potato and Pecan 32
Pie, Whiskied Prune _____________________ _________ 30
Plaintain au Caramel __________________ _________ 29
Potato, Peach Compote, Sweet _____ ______ 29
Potatoes, Sweet Candied __________ __________ __ 29
Pralines, New Orleans ---------------------------- 34
Pudding aux Etages -------------------------------- 31
Pudding de Giraumont (Cashaw
or Pumpkin) ---------------------------------------- 29
Ris au Lait, Mme. Esparbes (Milk Rice) 32
Salad; Fresh Fruit, in White Wine ________ 31
Sauce, Butterscotch and Almond____________ 30
Sherbert, Purple Pluni ---------------------------- 33
Strawberry Strudel -------------------------------- 30
Page
V e g e t a b l e s __________________ ________ _22
Beans, Mme. Esparbes Ham and Lima 23
Beans, Navy, au jus d' Agneau__________________ 23
Beans, Pole and Smoked Pork ---------------- 22
Beans, Red, and Rice Albert _______ _________ 22
Beans, String, Jardiniere _ _____ __ ___ ____ _ 23
Broccoli, Cheesed, in Drawn Butter________ 25
Brussel Sprouts, Baked, au Gratin _______ 25
Cabbage, Creole, and Corn BeeL ______ :__ 22
Cabbage, Stuffed ------------------------------------- 22
Carrots au Beurre ------------------------------------ 24
Cauliflower au Gratin --------------------------- 24
Chou-Croute au Pork, Mme. Esparbes____ 22
Congri, or Cowpeas, Corn, Ham
and Rice --------------------------------------------------- 23
Corn, Young, in Creole Sauce__________ ______ 22
Eggplants, Stuffed ------------------------------------ 24
Ham Mousse---------------------------------------------- 23
Mirletons (vegetable pears) Stuffed _______ 24
Peas, Bonne Femme and Ham________________ 23
Pomme de Terre, Souffle
(Puffed Potatoes) ----------------------- _______ 24
Potato, Irish, Croquettes ------------------------ 24
Spinach, Fresh and Eggs ------------------------ 24
Squash au Beurre ------------------------------------ 24
Squash, Stuffed ----------------------~----------------- 24
Tomatoes, Fried or Broiled, Creole 25
Some Facts and Hints Concerning Creole Cookery
Pork is always roasted or fried well done.
Ham and bacon are broil